By the way, I see I made a typo in my previous response. The vacuum hose
routing sticker is near the DRIVER'S side hood hinge. Sorry, folks.
Dick Benjamin
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul A. Feeney <paFeeney@xxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 9:38 AM
Subject: Re: IML: 82 Imp EFI won't start/run
> Hi Dick,
>
> Thanks for the great advise. I'm planning on looking at the car this
weekend
> (after tuning-up my 68). If the lid gaskets are bad, is this something a
> dealer would still have, or should I improvise with a generic seal? I
> bought this car for next to nothing ($250, it sat for about 5 years) and I
> don't mind putting a few bucks into it as I plan to use it as a daily
driver
> (kind of). Heck if this engine doesn't work out, I was thinking a newer
> Magnum 360, or even a V-10 from a truck.
>
> At the parts store I ran into a little confusion on fuel filters. It
listed
> two types, one seemed to be "normal" with a simply "in" and "out", but the
> other had a third, smaller in/outlet. I haven't crawled under the car yet
to
> check what's under there, but I found it interesting, and confusing.
>
> I couldn't hear any pumps, pumping, but the engine is obviously getting
> fuel, as it stinks of gas and will somewhat start. Ever seen fire coming
> from the crankcase breather??? (the breather hose is gone, but I've
> completely sealed the inlet the air cleaner housing until I get a new one)
>
> I have a sound understanding of modern fuel injection (which may hurt my
> chance of understanding this car). I read about the fuel "nozzles". Is
this
> just a type of fuel distribution system, all feeding from a centralized,
> single injector?
>
> Also, is there any type of electronic self-diagnosis system on these cars?
> Even my 97 Ram (with OBD-II) can be accessed by cycling the key.
>
> Are parts still available at the dealer for these cars, or has Chrysler
left
> us out in the cold (again)?
>
> I appreciate any/all help with this project.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Paul
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dick Benjamin" <DickB@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 9:05 AM
> Subject: Re: IML: 82 Imp EFI won't start/run
>
>
> > Paul;
> >
> > This may take a while, and is going to lead you into doing some research
> > yourself. As a first step, though, remove the new air filter element
and
> > reinstall the lid tightly, just to make sure you don't have an air leak
> > induced by a poor fitting air filter element.
> >
> > Assuming this is not going to help, the next step is to carefully
inspect
> > all the wiring and vacuum hose tubing, making sure all the harnesses are
> > completely plugged in with all pins and connectors intact, and that the
> > vacuum hose routing is exactly in compliance with the information on the
> > passenger inner fender sticker (it's near the hood hinge and may be
quite
> > dirty, but it is there.)
> >
> > Assuming you haven't yet found a problem, read up in the IML archives
> about
> > how to run the car with the air cleaner lid off. Basically, you need to
> > fool the computer into ignoring the air flow sensor by telling it that
you
> > are cranking to start the engine.
> >
> > If you haven't been using the IML archives long, you may need to search
> > around a bit before finding the step by step procedure, but it is there,
> I'm
> > sure, because I wrote it.
> >
> > Once you know the trick for starting the car with the lid off, have a
> helper
> > try to start it while you watch the fuel plumbing lines inside the air
> > cleaner assembly. I'm guessing you will see some liquid fuel leaking
> from
> > somewhere, probably the fuel pressure switch tubing, or the nozzle
> assembly
> > valves. This is all very simple stuff, which you can remove,
disassemble
> > and clean with spray type carburetor cleaner, so that you get all 8
> nozzles
> > spraying nicely. Then put it back together and reassemble the lid
etc.,
> to
> > see if you've fixed anything.
> >
> > If still no go, take a very close look at all the other air seals in the
> > whole top of engine hardware. Pay particular attention to the lid
> gasket,
> > and to the one beneath the hydraulic support assembly.
> >
> > If you don't have the two manuals for this car, get busy on eBay or from
a
> > literature dealer and find yourself a set, these are mandatory for
> > maintaining this car.
> >
> > Don't give up - just listen to those of us who have fought our way
through
> > all the sin previously committed by the unwashed in trying to get these
> cars
> > to run. Once you have it all back to normal, you will be delighted in
the
> > way the car starts, runs, and drives!
> >
> > I doubt this is enough information to solve the whole series of
> complaints,
> > but see if you can plow through the above and report back to us. There
> are
> > 5 or 6 people on here who know a lot about these cars, and one of us
will
> > jump in with good advice on every point.
> >
> > If you don't already have one, it is a good idea to pick up a decent
> analog
> > type volt-ohmmeter. Radio Shack has an adequate one for under $50.
> >
> > As someone else has implied, 90% of the engine problems on these cars
are
> > blamed on "that damned EFI", and when it's all said and done, about 10%
of
> > them turn out to be actually related to its being an EFI car.
> >
> > Dick Benjamin
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Paul A. Feeney <paFeeney@xxxxxxxx>
> > To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 12:09 PM
> > Subject: IML: 82 Imp EFI won't start/run
> >
> >
> > > Hi All,
> > >
> > > I just bought this car a few weeks ago and have since joined the club.
> > > Thanks for welcoming me. I've enjoyed the club so much in the last
> couple
> > of
> > > weeks that I've already gone out and bought a 68 Crown Coupe (runs
> great,
> > > 99.9% original from a man who bought it in 69).
> > >
> > > Anyway, about my non-running 82. It has the EFI still installed. I
just
> > put
> > > new plugs in it and a new 0-2 sensor, fresh gas, new air filter and a
> new
> > > battery.
> > >
> > > Result- If I crank the car FOREVER, it will fire and immediately
stall.
> If
> > I
> > > give it some gas (step on pedal) as it fires it will increase RPM and
> then
> > > die within a couple of seconds. If I then crank it again it will fire
> and
> > > stay running (very rough) as long as I keep my foot on the gas. WAY
DOWN
> > on
> > > the gas. It will NOT idle, not even close, it will run above about
2,500
> > rpm
> > > only and it sounds like it's running on 5-6 cylinders only. Actually
it
> > > feels like the plug wires are on wrong (they're not, I checked).
> > >
> > > Where should I start? I've read briefly through the info on club
> > > website but most of it deals with vehicles that idle rough or have low
> > > power. Mine just isn't drivable at all. I'm sure that I'm not the only
> > > person to come across this problem as I see 81-83 Imps for sale cheap
> all
> > > the time that "don't run". This car is extremely clean. No dents, no
> rust,
> > > great interior. As soon as I get it running it will go out for a fresh
> > coat
> > > of paint.
> > >
> > > Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm sure all be back online
about
> > > things on my 68 as I learn more about it. I've already had the VERY
> > painful
> > > experience of taking a power window motor off the regulator (watch
out,
> > this
> > > thing is like a bear trap as the spring will snap it closed on your
> hand,
> > I
> > > got ten stitches out of it)
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Paul A. Feeney
> > >
> > > 82 Lt Blue EFI Wire Wheel
> > > 68 Black Crown Coupe
> > > 97 Dodge Ram 3500 (tow rig)
> > > 82 Maserati Quattroporte (at least it has a Mopar Trans, starter, and
> A/C)
> > >
> > >
> > >
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> > >
> >
> >
> >
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