I ground out the rivet and the door came off. I'll be sure to try to match up my current doors onto the 63 (I'm trading him) before driving off with a stupid grin on my face. -Thanks to all that responded! -Kenyon --- Jeff Ingraham <jeff_ingraham@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: > Hi Kenyon, > We had a heck of a time with the doors on my 57 and my brothers 58 > and > swapping with the doors off the 59 burned up parts car. Anyway we found > the > rear doors off a 59 4dr LOOK identical to the 57 or 58 (all 4dr HT FYI) > but > they have a different internal contour and WILL NOT WORK which was not > evident > until we had the 59 door mounted on the 57 and went to shut it. YIKES! > The only reason I mention this is if you current doors are soon to be > smashed > into oblivion, it would be best to find out if they don't work before > they are > destroyed. And they may be the same as I have never swapped 60/63 > doors, I > just wanted to relate that story as it came as quite a shock to me when > we > suddenly had to find another door and they looked identical! > Now about the slider bar that limits door mobility.. > We fought and fought with that and ended up drilling out the rivit. > Perhaps > Bob Hoffmeister or some other parts vendor type can add their tips but > we > fought for hours and ended up drilling the rivit out. > Good luck! > Jeff > > > kenyon wills wrote: > > > I am hurrying to remove my 1960 rear doors. The 1963 demo derby guy > is > > letting me swap my rusty doors for his perfect ones (!!!). I need to > have > > them out by AM Thursday and already have them stripped and ready to > pull > > off. The fronts are already done. > > > > Once I get all the bolts and such off and tug on the door, the slider > bar > > that limits the door from opening wider than it should remains. This > is > > on a pivot that is secured with a rivet and goes through the door > frame on > > the B pillar and passes through a piece that is bolted into the > interior > > of the door. There is a bumpstop on the end that does not appear > > removable. > > > > Unbolting everything does not work. > > The FSM does not address door removal, just adjustment. > > > > It appears that the round rubber bumpstop has to come off, but there > is no > > apparent way to do so, and I'm suspecting that the rivet was the last > part > > insterted. It would be cleanest to remove just that, and easiest to > > assemble if that were the only thing to press into place and then > clamp > > down when this was assembled. > > > > Is there a way to do this without going after the rivet? > > > > I will slice this thing out if I don't see an answer Wed night, as I > have > > a second car for parts, but I'm stumped and will need to address this > one > > way or another. > > > > Been there? > > Done that? > > > > How? > > > > ===== > > Kenyon Wills > > 6o LeBaron - America's Most Carefully Built Car > > 73 LeBaron - Long Low & Luxurious > > > > San Lorenzo/SF Bay Area > > > > __________________________________________________ > > Do you Yahoo!? > > Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. > > http://mailplus.yahoo.com > >