I'd do the inside of the hood and decklid. A few runs won't matter as the
finish on the inside of stuff including the engine compartment was not great
from ma Mopar anyway.
Take a cardboard box, drill some holes in it and push your bolts through
once they are clean. That way you can paint the heads and not get paint in
the threads. If you need to touch up later get an airbrush.
Speaking of HVLP, as you know, I'm fond of the 60 buck one from harbor
Freight. What are you borrowing as it is good to get 'used' to a gun and
not be changing every time you paint.
If it was me, I'd use single stage urethane instead of base/clear for non
metallics. You can put on5-6 coats and then wet sand to perfection and not
worry about going through a metallic layer. Also will look a little (not
much because it's still Urethane) less plastic.
Kerryp
KerryP
Patch panels fabricated
Pinkertonk@xxxxxxxxx
dte.net/57imperial
Imperials -- 50 Limo, 57 roadster, 61's, 62, 68 Convert, 73, a 66 300 and a
bunch of lesser marques
----- Original Message -----
From: kenyon wills <imperialist60@xxxxxxxxx>
To: IML <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2003 1:34 AM
Subject: IML: In a jamb - paint question
> My car is completely apart.
>
> I have rounded third and am headed for home on the free-form body-filler
> sculpture portion of my project (you have no idea what I've been through).
> I'm almost ready to prime and then block the car in preparation for
> painting in (maybe) May or June.
>
> I'm thinking of doing a painting test run on the hood, trunklid, or doors,
> or all of them while off the car (as they are now). This due to the fact
> that I will be using a borrowed HVLP system with marginal spraying
> experience, and I'd rather sand down and redo a hood or door than the
> entire body shell if/when I see an error in my procedure.
>
> Say that I paint the doors and the hinges seperately, then everything's
> subsequently dry and ready for assembly. I then have to attach them to
> the car with bolts that won't be already painted to match, or bolts whose
> finish will not survive my wrench if pre-painted and then wrenched on.
>
> What do I do?
>
> 1. Paint the various fastener heads by hand once the painted door is hung
> on the painted car & relevant brackets/bolts are joined and aligned?
>
> 2. Respray the fastener areas surrounding the bolts and including them?
> What to do then? Mask off everything but the hinge and try to avoid
> overspray that way, shooting as small an area I can and then color sanding
> the masked edges to blend them into the previously painted areas?
>
> 3. Something else that I'm not thinking of?
>
> The car will be painted black, most likely in clear-coat by the way.
>
>
> ---
>
>
> Anyway, things must be coming along. I'm through the worst parts.
> I started seriously jonesing to drive the car today when I got done
> working on it.
>
> Spring fever's tough when all you've got is a stripped body shell, body
> filler fume dreams, and nice weather.
>
>
>
> =====
> Kenyon Wills
> San Lorenzo/SF Bay Area
>
> 196o Imperial LeBaron - America's Most Carefully Built Car
> http://www.imperialclub.com/YearbyYear/1960/Kenyon/Page01.htm
> 1973 Imperial LeBaron - Long Low & Luxurious
> http://www.imperialclub.com/YearbyYear/1973/wills/
>
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