Thanks to everyone who responded.
One thing I left out is, my car is a relatively low mileage vehicle--
about 73k. So I'm doubtful it would need a front end rebuild . . .
Also, the car doesn't really "wander" at highway speeds. (I define
"wandering" as drifting from left to right without any input from the
driver.) My car will stick to a straight line fine-- it's just that
while you're holding that line you can move the wheel back & forth maybe
2-3 inches and not see much result. It's not bad, but my other '68 is a
lot tighter, and so are other Imperials/Chryslers I've driven.
I will check all the things mentioned, though. Thanks again, guys!!
Mark
Kenyon Wills wrote:
> May I suggest jacking the car up, firmly jackstanding it, and being
> underneath while an associate moves the wheel? Putting your hand on
> items as the wheel is wiggled in the slop-zone may allow some
> deduction. Wiggling the stering linkages by hand while you're under
> there may expose some slop that would be hard to detect otherwise. Is
> the slop in the box, in the linkages, or both? This will allow you to
> narrow your attention, perhaps? Remember that the box has a limited
> (usually generous) amount of adjustment, and when you get to the end
> of the adjustment, you must rebuild or replace. This should be a once
> in a lifetime thing, though, as those boxes are really robust. There
> have been good suggestions all around, and a front-end rebuild might
> do wonders for your car anyway, but there are many parts that make up
> the whole that could contribute. If you pay somone else to do it, it
> could run $600-$1,000 around where I live, but now that I've done the
> 1960 that I'm rebuilding, it doesn't seem too scary anymore. Just
> make certain that things are tightened properly and the cotter pins
> done well if you chase it yourself. One item not mentioned, and I
> don't know if your car has it (my 1960 does not, 73 does) is a small
> rubber block with 4 bolt holes in it that goes between the steering
> column and the box itself. It is a sort of u-joint in a way. These
> can also get worn and should rereplaced any time that they are
> suspect. Good luck! -Kenyon
>
> Mark McDonald <tomswift@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> Hi folks, it's me again. :)
>
> Spring is here so I've got the '68 convertible out and I've
> been driving
> it around, and I've noticed that the steering is really
> sloppy. By that
> I mean it has a lot of play in it-- you can move the wheel a
> lot before
> you start to change directions.
>
> I've tried tightening up the little nut on the steering box,
> and that
> does seem to increase the resistance, or the strength
> needed, to turn
> the wheel, but does not take out the play.
>
> I am thinking I need a new steering box to really fix this
> problem.
> Opinions?
>
> Also, is there one brand that is better than others, in
> terms of
> rebuilds? (I assume you can't get a new one.) My local parts
> house can
> get me a rebuilt one by Cardone.
>
> Thanks, Mark
>
>
>
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