The switch is easy to remove. You need a "tamper proof" torx screw driver
(of which I was fortuntate to have).
I looked up those ccts that are inop and here they are...
3 - 10A - Left Low Beam
4 - 10A - Right Low Beam
5 - 4A - Illumination lps for: Cluster, Rear Def Sw, Radio, Headlamp sw, A/C
& ATC Control, PRNDL, Ash Reveiver, Incandescent Message Center & Traveler
9 - 10A - Cornering lmps, Auto Day/Nite Mirror, ATC Control, Rear Window Def
Sw
10 - 30A - Blower Motor
11 - 10A - Backup-lmps, Rad fan relay
17 - 10A - Heated Mirrors
18 - 20A - Windshield Wipers
Looking at this list, there is something wrong with my test. I know things
like the wipers and cluster lamps work. Maybe there is no power to those
ccts until the switch is closed.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Humphries" <mjhumphri@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2003 12:55 PM
Subject: Re: IML: 1990 Imperial Electrical Issue
> If I remember correctly. The switch isn't hard to get
> out, but I beleive my fathers was held in with
> "security torx" screws. I know he took his to the
> chrysler dealer the first time, and bought the right
> screwdriver the second time.
>
> A secuirty torx will look like a traditional torx,
> only on the screw driver there will be a hole in the
> middle of the bit end. The screw has a stud in the
> middle of the torx head that prevents a regular torx
> screwdriver from working.
>
> I'm not certain, but I expect the NewYorker and
> Dynasty switch will work. My dad has a New Yorker as
> well. The switches look identical. The only difference
> I notice, is that the New Yorker has Quad high beams
> (all four lights on) while the Imperial uses flip-flop
> high beams (only two high beams on, low beam shut
> off). I suspect this is just a difference in the
> wiring going to the headlights. I suspect the switches
> are the same.
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