Sorry, Roger, to contradict you here, but the tapered shaft and the mating
hub should be re-assembled dry. Don't use any lubricant at all! Lubricant
will sooner or later lead to shearing off the woodruff key. I base this on
my Packard shop manual (which used the same system). I don't have a
Chrysler manual from the same period to check, but the parts are the same so
I suspect the procedure is also.
Dick Benjamin
----- Original Message -----
From: "roger crabtree" <rcrabshish@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 11:54 AM
Subject: Re: IML: '60 rear drums are stuck! PATIENCE!
> Just a suggestion,
> I have not seen this posted yet. When you go back
> together with the drum put a thin layer of anti-seize
> on the flat of the axle and the centering hub. Make
> sure that it will not squeeze out of the drum. It is
> not good for brake linings. This will stop future
> rust problems of this nature and make the drum easier
> to get off. It worked wonders on my 55. It had the
> same problem the first time I removed the drums.
>
>
>
> --- RandalPark@xxxxxxx wrote: > I have always managed
> to get the drums off without
> > heat. I have six cars with these axles, and had them
> > all apart several times over the last 30 years. The
> > keyword here is patience.
> >
> > One thing that I really liked about Sherwood's post
> > was the idea of applying the pressure (assuming that
> > you in fact are using the correct type of puller)
> > and walking away from it for an hour or two. Not
> > only does this give the puller time to do it's job,
> > but it also keeps one from becoming over-zealous and
> > damaging the car or themselves.
> >
> > Paul
> >
> > In a message dated 1/27/2004 9:46:14 PM Eastern
> > Standard Time, jsadowski@xxxxxxx writes:
> >
> > > I agree that the torch is a no no. I know we've
> > covered this subject to death before & this will be
> > my only post regarding it. The puller needs to be
> > the type that fastens to the studs on the drum. If
> > you use the type that clamps to the outer edge, the
> > drum will break apart from the hub rendering it
> > useless.
> > >
> > > If you are going to use ANY heat at all, it
> > needs to be only enough to swell the drum & not
> > transfer any heat to the axle, or your wasting your
> > time. Sufficient heat for this purpose is produced
> > by a heat gun, a torch is too hot.
> > > John
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: RandalPark@xxxxxxx
> > > To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > > Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 6:21 PM
> > > Subject: Re: IML: '60 rear drums are stuck!
> > Help...LeCrown has a death grip on its dr...
> > >
> > >
> > > Sherwood is absolutely correct. Please be careful
> > and use the axle nut as a safety on the axle so that
> > when the drum does "POP" it won't fly off the car
> > and hurt you! This can be very dangerous. There is
> > no drum that will not come off, some just take
> > longer and need more "pull". My mechanic friend and
> > I cracked two hub pullers doing this job on my '56
> > last September. We finally got it off with a bigger
> > tool.
> > >
> > > I would highly advise against using a torch to
> > heat the axles, and or the drums.
> > >
> > > Paul
> > >
> > > In a message dated 1/27/2004 7:46:01 PM Eastern
> > Standard Time, SherwoodK writes:
> > >
> > > > Group:
> > > >
> > > > I just had the same problem on a Mopar of the
> > same vintage...
> > > >
> > > > You need a large puller. Put pressure on it by
> > tightening the screw handle with a sledge. Hit the
> > drum from the side all the way around. Tighten
> > again. Hit the drum again all the way around.
> > Tighten again. Leave like this for an hour. It will
> > come loose. It's rusted to the shoes. Repeat until
> > you get
> > > > it to pop. Mine took two hours...
> > > >
> > > > Sherwood Kahlenberg
> > >
> > >
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