It appears the consensus on the spark knock has already hit most of the common culprits. Check the dist mechanical advance springs to see if one has broken or has stretched. You wont catch that at idle necessarily depending on idle speed, it may or may not have begun to swing out with centrifugal force against the other spring. Its not hard to check, just pull the cap and look down under the advance plate and visually check them. I would guess vac advance issue perhaps or one of the other conditions already mentioned. On the subject of the 78 NYB timing chain. You need not worry about turning the engine over after you remove the chain and gears. These engines are not an interference type so unless someone has installed a HUGE lift cam in the thing youll never get the valves that close to the pistons. Also, the reason the problem can exist with the cam hitting the welch plug is from driving the cam gear onto the cam can push the cam rearwards, and the distributor / oil pump drive shaft isnt going to totally eliminate the cam from moving rearwards. If one was to push the cam that far back to dislodge the welch plug then there will be some other issues Id rather not think about....one of which will be an absolutely horrendous oil leak at the back of the engine. Find a piece of hard plastic, nylon, really anything that wont let it move and use it as a lever to keep some forward pressure on the cam as you put the gear on. zDont use something thats either so brittle it breaks and falls inside the engine or something so small that it just falls down inside. Careful using metallic stuff incase you happen to slip and nick a cam lobe. I have replaced numerous cam gears and never had to use that much force to get one on anyway. Light tapping with a mallet or hard plastic hammer has always done the trick, if its going on that hard theres probably something wrong otherwise. Mikey 62 Crown Coupe