With respect to 1959 Plymouth engine options, one could get a 230 c.i.
flathead, a 318 with 1,2, or 4 bbl, or a 361 with 4 bbl. (Some also say the
383 was available, but it aint in the brochures)
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Stein <Posti@AOL.COM>
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@LISTS.PSU.EDU <L-FORWARDLOOK@LISTS.PSU.EDU>
Date: Friday, November 05, 1999 5:16 AM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Fixing up 59 Plymouth (Was No Subject)
>Hiya!
>
>I have a 59 Dodge that I've been working on for a while. The rbakes have
>been a problem, though I think that is mostly straightened out now. I
looked
>over your questions, and will provide opinions on a couple for you.
>
>1) Of course, anybody have any leads on a good quality Mopar friendly shop
in
> the Austin, TX area? (Sorry - live in Virginia)
>
>1) Can I put hazards/back up lights in the car without too much trouble?
>Backup lights were optional - the transmission has the setup, you just need
a
>switch (ebay has one currently). So you can go with original setup there.
>Hazards are just an added switch and flasher - though you really don't need
>them for anything.
>
>2) Has anyone ever put in any kind of aftermarket air conditioning in that
> flathead six? I am really just looking to have the edge taken off of the
>Texas
> summers, it doesn t have to be a bone chilling monster system. Can I keep
>the
> generating system intact if I add something like this, or should I find an
> alternator? If not possible, any other suggestions for keeping my weary
>bones
> cool?
>29 and you have weary bones? ::grin:: Anyway, the flathead six was not a
>strong engine, and would be slow enough without the added strain of AC see
my
>note on engine choice. One suggestion - check the local boneyards for one
of
>the underdash AC units that were popular in the late fifties and sixties.
>They contain all of the AC elements you nfor inside the car, lare original,
>and need only hookup to the compressor and condesor.
>
>3) If I do an engine swap (not at all likely), what is easy and keeps the
push
> button transmission intact?
>I'd suggest a wide-block 318 V-8, available from a long series of MOPAR
>products. It's the same block that I have in my 59 Dodge with Powerflight,
>so tranny boltup should be the same. Plus, the 318 may have been available
>in the 59 Plymouth, so you could actually maintain originality while making
>the car much more drivable. This would also simplify the AC qustion. You
>could find a later MOPAR with the appropriate running gear and AC, and
simply
>swap the assemblies over. You'd get the engine, alternator,, etc. in one
>fell swoop, and probably for cheap. More experienced MOPAR guys can tell
you
>what years are compatible.
>
>4) Safety: Brake system redone with dual chamber master cylinder. Anything
>else
> on brakes that shouldn t be stock? As long as you keep a check on the
>system, the original brakes are fine as they are. Even the master cylinder
>is no problem - I have a 1950 Chevy pickup that I've driven for 8 years
>without adding a drop of brake fluid. And even when I have had an old car
>run out of brake fluid (blown rear wheel cylinder), I had enough brakes to
>stop the car. Modifying the master cylinder is more than just on something
>from a newer car. You have plumbing, linkage, and most importantly,
pressure
>equalization problems.
>
>5) What kind of money can get you a decent, driveable car nowadays? I look
> around in the auto trader, etc. and see really obnoxious amounts spent on
> various vehicles. Of course you can spend as much as you like and all,
but
>am
> I realistic in thinking I can get a good quality driver for the amount of
>money
> I have to spend? BTW, I did already upholster the seats and they are
ready
>to
> go.
>To be honest, you are gonna spend a LOT more money building up this
Plymouth.
> A decent (not show-winning) paint job with minimal body work can run $2K
>easily, and that will buy a nice daily driver, at least in Virginia. And I
>can guarantee that you won't get that money back out of a car that is
>modified. As long as this will be a car you want to keep for the long
haul,
>and aren't in it as an investment, that won't matter. As a case in point,
>my car (http://hometown.aol.com/posti/59dodge.htm) was a terrific choice
for
>restoration. It was complete, had only 39K miles original, had a perfect
>original interior, and only one area of serious rust. I paid $800 for the
>car. The engine had to have a top-end rebuild, the brake system had to be
>replaced, lots of sanding and tinkering elsewhere. I did everything but
the
>paint and rust repair myself. The paint shop gave me a great price ($2K)
>because the guy was a Mopar freak and I had done a lot of the prep
stripping
>and sanding. All in all, I would guess that I have about $5K in the car
>total. NOT COUNTING two years of my own labor!
>
>6) Are there any really known weak spots safety-wise that I should go over
> extremely carefully?? My three children will be riding in this car and I
> really want it as safe as possible.
>Seat belts, obviously. If you are going to drive this car regularly, you
may
>consider wide-white radials instead of bias-ply tires. Some tire places
can
>actually take a bargain set of standard whitewalls and shave the facing out
>to create a wide whitewall. (Locally, it's about $15 per tire for the
>service). Considering that you can get Pep Boys tires at 4 for $100 and
get
>the tires shaved for $60, the $120 per tire cost of the wide white radials
in
>Hemmings seems a bit out of reach.
>
>7) Bottom line, I will have a ton of questions and you guys have always
helped
> immensely. I trust you and will undoubtedly have even more questions as
time
> goes on.
>Good luck! I'm a former mechanic who is learning old Mopar tricks as I go.
>I'll be happy to share info, data, and mistakes! And I am posting this to
>the group so that if I have made any glaring errors in my suggestions, I
can
>be soundly thrashed by the membership! ::grin::
>
>Bob Stein
>59 Dodge Coronet
>
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