Re: [FWDLK] Fixing up 59 Plymouth (Was No Subject)

[Philip Patterson <bintakin@EARTHLINK.NET>]

According to my 1960 Chilton's Manual. It shows only a 361 for 59 and 60 with
Plymouth. Dodge got the 383 in 59 for the D500 only, with DeSoto getting the 383
in 59 as well. This was also true for Chrysler Saratoga and Windsor as well in
59 and 60.
Phil Patterson

Roger Howard wrote:

> With respect to 1959 Plymouth engine options, one could get a 230 c.i.
> flathead,  a 318 with 1,2, or 4 bbl, or a 361 with 4 bbl. (Some also say the
> 383 was available, but it aint in the brochures)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Stein <Posti@AOL.COM>
> To: L-FORWARDLOOK@LISTS.PSU.EDU <L-FORWARDLOOK@LISTS.PSU.EDU>
> Date: Friday, November 05, 1999 5:16 AM
> Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Fixing up 59 Plymouth (Was No Subject)
>
> >Hiya!
> >
> >I have a 59 Dodge that I've been working on for a while.  The rbakes have
> >been a problem, though I think that is mostly straightened out now.  I
> looked
> >over your questions, and will provide opinions on a couple for you.
> >
> >1) Of course, anybody have any leads on a good quality Mopar friendly shop
> in
> > the Austin, TX area?  (Sorry - live in Virginia)
> >
> >1) Can I put hazards/back up lights in the car without too much trouble?
> >Backup lights were optional - the transmission has the setup, you just need
> a
> >switch (ebay has one currently).  So you can go with original setup there.
> >Hazards are just an added switch and flasher - though you really don't need
> >them for anything.
> >
> >2) Has anyone ever put in any kind of aftermarket air conditioning in that
> > flathead six?  I am really just looking to have the edge taken off of the
> >Texas
> > summers, it doesn t have to be a bone chilling monster system.  Can I keep
> >the
> > generating system intact if I add something like this, or should I find an
> > alternator?  If not possible, any other suggestions for keeping my weary
> >bones
> > cool?
> >29 and you have weary bones?  ::grin::  Anyway, the flathead six was not a
> >strong engine, and would be slow enough without the added strain of AC see
> my
> >note on engine choice.  One suggestion - check the local boneyards for one
> of
> >the underdash AC units that were popular in the late fifties and sixties.
> >They contain all of the AC elements you nfor inside the car, lare original,
> >and need only hookup to the compressor and condesor.
> >
> >3) If I do an engine swap (not at all likely), what is easy and keeps the
> push
> > button transmission intact?
> >I'd suggest a wide-block 318 V-8, available from a long series of MOPAR
> >products.  It's the same block that I have in my 59 Dodge with Powerflight,
> >so tranny boltup should be the same.  Plus, the 318 may have been available
> >in the 59 Plymouth, so you could actually maintain originality while making
> >the car much more drivable.  This would also simplify the AC qustion.  You
> >could find a later MOPAR with the appropriate running gear and AC, and
> simply
> >swap the assemblies over.  You'd get the engine, alternator,, etc. in one
> >fell swoop, and probably for cheap.  More experienced MOPAR guys can tell
> you
> >what years are compatible.
> >
> >4) Safety: Brake system redone with dual chamber master cylinder.  Anything
> >else
> > on brakes that shouldn t be stock?  As long as you keep a check on the
> >system, the original brakes are fine as they are.  Even the master cylinder
> >is no problem - I have a 1950 Chevy pickup that I've driven for 8 years
> >without adding a drop of brake fluid.  And even when I have had an old car
> >run out of brake fluid (blown rear wheel cylinder), I had enough brakes to
> >stop the car.  Modifying the master cylinder is more than just on something
> >from a newer car.  You have plumbing, linkage, and most importantly,
> pressure
> >equalization problems.
> >
> >5) What kind of money can get you a decent, driveable car nowadays?  I look
> > around in the auto trader, etc. and see really obnoxious amounts spent on
> > various vehicles.  Of course you can spend as much as you like and all,
> but
> >am
> > I realistic in thinking I can get a good quality driver for the amount of
> >money
> > I have to spend?  BTW, I did already upholster the seats and they are
> ready
> >to
> > go.
> >To be honest, you are gonna spend a LOT more money building up this
> Plymouth.
> > A decent (not show-winning) paint job with minimal body work can run $2K
> >easily, and that will buy a nice daily driver, at least in Virginia.  And I
> >can guarantee that you won't get that money back out of a car that is
> >modified.  As long as this will be a car you want to keep for the long
> haul,
> >and aren't in it as an investment, that won't matter.   As a case in point,
> >my car (http://hometown.aol.com/posti/59dodge.htm) was a terrific choice
> for
> >restoration.  It was complete, had only 39K miles original, had a perfect
> >original interior, and only one area of serious rust.  I paid $800 for the
> >car.  The engine had to have a top-end rebuild, the brake system had to be
> >replaced, lots of sanding and tinkering elsewhere.  I did everything but
> the
> >paint and rust repair myself.  The paint shop gave me a great price ($2K)
> >because the guy was a Mopar freak and I had done a lot of the prep
> stripping
> >and sanding.  All in all, I would guess that I have about $5K in the car
> >total.  NOT COUNTING two years of my own labor!
> >
> >6) Are there any really known weak spots safety-wise that I should go over
> > extremely carefully??  My three children will be riding in this car and I
> > really want it as safe as possible.
> >Seat belts, obviously.  If you are going to drive this car regularly, you
> may
> >consider wide-white radials instead of bias-ply tires.  Some tire places
> can
> >actually take a bargain set of standard whitewalls and shave the facing out
> >to create a wide whitewall.  (Locally, it's about $15 per tire for the
> >service).  Considering that you can get Pep Boys tires at 4 for $100 and
> get
> >the tires shaved for $60, the $120 per tire cost of the wide white radials
> in
> >Hemmings seems a bit out of reach.
> >
> >7) Bottom line, I will have a ton of questions and you guys have always
> helped
> > immensely.  I trust you and will undoubtedly have even more questions as
> time
> > goes on.
> >Good luck!  I'm a former mechanic who is learning old Mopar tricks as I go.
> >I'll be happy to share info, data, and mistakes!  And I am posting this to
> >the group so that if I have made any glaring errors in my suggestions, I
> can
> >be soundly thrashed by the membership!  ::grin::
> >
> >Bob Stein
> >59 Dodge Coronet
> >