[FWDLK] pertronix/temp reply
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[FWDLK] pertronix/temp reply



unless there is an extreme dwell difference with pertronix, or timing advancement was enstated during installation, it should have no bearing on running temp...
 
however as a side note, my 57 premier conv't runs about 10 degrees warmer than my 57 capri coupe, the vert has pertronix, coupe still points... but i never drove the vert with points as a basis, thats the only car i've owned with pertronix.  i have, however installed at least 10 conversions for customers, with no reports of running temp changes.



-----Original Message-----
From: Ronald Hilbert <ron@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: L-FORWARDLOOK <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Fri, Aug 19, 2011 8:06 pm
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] WHO CAN DO SOLDERING

Has anyone had an issue after installing a Pertronix electronic ignition conversion with the engine running hotter?
 
Have a Great Day!
 
Ron Hilbert
57 Plymouth
 
 
From: Forward Look Mopar Discussion List [mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Adam Lindenbaum
Sent: Friday, August 19, 2011 4:21 PM
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] WHO CAN DO SOLDERING
 
I learned my lesson with my '58 Fury, it has an MSD ignition and one night in Jersey the box went bad, fun ride in a flatbed home. I've also had the Mopar "Orange" box in the '57 fail me but I learned many years ago with the Mopar electronics to carry spare boxes and ballast resistors. When I redo my '57 I'm putting points back in it, not really possible with the Hemi in the Fury, it needs all of the spark it can get.
Adam
 
In a message dated 8/19/2011 5:39:56 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
I carry a SPARE points-distributor in the car!,
Neil Vedder



AdamL57@xxxxxxx wrote:
> I personally do not trust pertronix ignitions, I left points in my 318, no 
> matter how bad they get they WILL get you home unlike the aftermarket
> electronic  conversions. If you use a pertronixs ignition carry a complete points
> set up  with you for when it fails.
> Adam Lindenbaum


> In a message dated 8/19/2011 2:20:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
> esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
> On that  Pertronix electronic ignition conversion, Dave forgot
> to mention (for  shame, Dave) that you will need to acquire a
> dual-point distributor, and/or  a dualie's upper cam-and-plate
> assembly (to install into a single-point  dissie, if that's what you
> have, now, or, the dualie can be used to replace  the entire
> single-point dissie).
>
> The C&P is needed  to  accommodate  the Pertronix  "under-
> cap" (hidden-) electronic  ignition system.
>
> At this point, there is a myriad of 'new' issues about  the
> performance of your existing dissie and/or a  replacement
> dualie-dissie, but, any replacement drop-in  dualie-dissie
> must have a shaft length equal to your existing  dissie.
>
> There are two different shaft lengths on  the  FWDLK
> dissies, depending on the year/model of your car.
>
> A dualie  FWDLK-era C&P will retrofit into any other
> FWDLK dissie, however, for a  Pertronix installation.
>
> And, this is the (very-) SHORT answer about  installing
> a Pertronix system, (and, possibly, hot-rodding your
> car's  distributor's performance; but, that's a completely
> different, additional  very-long story!).
>
> Altho a ballast resistor is not needed w/a  Pertronix
> system, you can keep your car's B.-A. still installed,
> but,  merely not connected to the distributor.
>
> The Pertronix, all by itself,  will NOT improve your
> car's performance (that's what the hot-rodded  dissie
> does); it will only make the car's 'spark' consistent,
> hot, and  reliable.
>
> Now I know why Dave forgot to mention how/why
> a Pertronix  might be installed in a dissie!!!
>
>
> Neil  Vedder
>
>
>
>
> Dave Homstad wrote:
>  
>> Ed,
>>
>> Some  things to consider:
>> 1. You need a 1 ohm resistor that can handle  several amps of current.
>> It also should be a "wire wound" style.  These are intended to allow
>> maximum current flow when cold, and  increase resistance as they warm
>> up to reduce current flow to the  ignition coil.
>> 2. These resistors run HOT. You should use a high  temperature solder.
>> 3.  I see on eBay a modern ballast resistor  for sale all the time.
>> Looks nearly identical to the old style except  the terminals are
>> different.
>> 4. For my car, I bought a  ballast resistor RU13 (looks like the
>> original except for the  terminals, from Car Quest, 1.6 ohms).
>> 5. If you convert to a  PerTronix, you don't even need a ballast
>> resistor if you use their  coil or one with an internal resistance.
>>
>>
>> Dave  Homstad
>> 56 Dodge D500
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 4:02 PM,  eddee@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>>
>>    
>>> Hello  Members
>>>
>>> I have an orig 1957/58 ballast resister   (very rare as we all
>>> know),,,,,,,,,,,,,,,but the resister wire on  the back side is shot.
>>>
>>> I have been looking locally for  a shop to solder in a new in line 1
>>> ohm resister between the two  terminals
>>>
>>> Job is too small--they are not  interested.
>>> but it is somewhat intricate since you almost have to  solder it blind.
>>>
>>> ANY SUGGESTIONS --Can any of you do  this type of soldering??
>>>
>>> ED ECKERSON
>>>  LI  NY
>>>
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