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There is a huge spread in the stock distributor characteristics in our cars, even among the same make and year. Initial timing at idle varies from 2 to 10 degrees. Mechanical advance limits vary from 16 to 32 degrees. Vacuum advance varies from 8 to 30 degrees. Centrifugal advance springs vary from very slow to fast. These characteristics are all controlled with a few interchangeable parts that fit all of these distributors. Just because a distributor fits an engine doesn't mean it will work properly or create optimum power. Many vendors will say a part fits a make and year, implying all engines, but that part may be specific to only one engine. This is especially true for vacuum advance replacement diaphragms. If a car needs an 8 degree and you use a 30, it will knock like crazy and burn holes in the pistons asap. If it needs a 30 and you use an 8, you will loose significant power, gas mileage, and probably run hotter. Dave Homstad 56 Dodge D500 On Fri, Aug 19, 2011 at 7:34 PM, Adam Lindenbaum wrote: It sounds like a timing or advance issue, did you check both? Are you using the same distributor that the car came with? I once bought an aftermarket electronic distributor for a B-Motor that when installed and timed at idle was fine but it advanced so far at higher RPMs that the engine was firing into the next cylinder. I ended up dissecting another distributor for the springs and disconnecting the vacuum advance so it would work. Adam Lindenbaum In a message dated 8/19/2011 8:06:28 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, ron@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes: Has anyone had an issue after installing a Pertronix electronic ignition conversion with the engine running hotter? Have a Great Day! Ron Hilbert 57 Plymouth From: Forward Look Mopar Discussion List [mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Adam Lindenbaum Sent: Friday, August 19, 2011 4:21 PM To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: [FWDLK] WHO CAN DO SOLDERING I learned my lesson with my '58 Fury, it has an MSD ignition and one night in Jersey the box went bad, fun ride in a flatbed home. I've also had the Mopar "Orange" box in the '57 fail me but I learned many years ago with the Mopar electronics to carry spare boxes and ballast resistors. When I redo my '57 I'm putting points back in it, not really possible with the Hemi in the Fury, it needs all of the spark it can get. Adam In a message dated 8/19/2011 5:39:56 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx writes: I carry a SPARE points-distributor in the car!, Neil Vedder AdamL57@xxxxxxx wrote: > I personally do not trust pertronix ignitions, I left points in my 318, no > matter how bad they get they WILL get you home unlike the aftermarket > electronic conversions. If you use a pertronixs ignition carry a complete points > set up with you for when it fails. > Adam Lindenbaum > > > In a message dated 8/19/2011 2:20:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx writes: > > On that Pertronix electronic ignition conversion, Dave forgot > to mention (for shame, Dave) that you will need to acquire a > dual-point distributor, and/or a dualie's upper cam-and-plate > assembly (to install into a single-point dissie, if that's what you > have, now, or, the dualie can be used to replace the entire > single-point dissie). > > The C&P is needed to accommodate the Pertronix "under- > cap" (hidden-) electronic ignition system. > > At this point, there is a myriad of 'new' issues about the > performance of your existing dissie and/or a replacement > dualie-dissie, but, any replacement drop-in dualie-dissie > must have a shaft length equal to your existing dissie. > > There are two different shaft lengths on the FWDLK > dissies, depending on the year/model of your car. > > A dualie FWDLK-era C&P will retrofit into any other > FWDLK dissie, however, for a Pertronix installation. > > And, this is the (very-) SHORT answer about installing > a Pertronix system, (and, possibly, hot-rodding your > car's distributor's performance; but, that's a completely > different, additional very-long story!). > > Altho a ballast resistor is not needed w/a Pertronix > system, you can keep your car's B.-A. still installed, > but, merely not connected to the distributor. > > The Pertronix, all by itself, will NOT improve your > car's performance (that's what the hot-rodded dissie > does); it will only make the car's 'spark' consistent, > hot, and reliable. > > Now I know why Dave forgot to mention how/why > a Pertronix might be installed in a dissie!!! > > > Neil Vedder > > > > > Dave Homstad wrote: > >> Ed, >> >> Some things to consider: >> 1. You need a 1 ohm resistor that can handle several amps of current. >> It also should be a "wire wound" style. These are intended to allow >> maximum current flow when cold, and increase resistance as they warm >> up to reduce current flow to the ignition coil. >> 2. These resistors run HOT. You should use a high temperature solder. >> 3. I see on eBay a modern ballast resistor for sale all the time. >> Looks nearly identical to the old style except the terminals are >> different. >> 4. For my car, I bought a ballast resistor RU13 (looks like the >> original except for the terminals, from Car Quest, 1.6 ohms). >> 5. If you convert to a PerTronix, you don't even need a ballast >> resistor if you use their coil or one with an internal resistance. >> >> >> Dave Homstad >> 56 Dodge D500 >> >> On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 4:02 PM, eddee@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote: >> >> >>> Hello Members >>> >>> I have an orig 1957/58 ballast resister (very rare as we all >>> know),,,,,,,,,,,,,,,but the resister wire on the back side is shot. >>> >>> I have been looking locally for a shop to solder in a new in line 1 >>> ohm resister between the two terminals >>> >>> Job is too small--they are not interested. >>> but it is somewhat intricate since you almost have to solder it blind. >>> >>> ANY SUGGESTIONS --Can any of you do this type of soldering?? >>> >>> ED ECKERSON >>> LI NY >>> >>> ************************************************************* >>> >>> To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to >>> http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1 >>> >> ************************************************************* >> >> To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to >> http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1 >> >> > > ************************************************************* > > To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to > http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1 > > > ************************************************************* To unsubscribe or set your subscription options, please go to ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. 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