Re: {Chrysler 300} In need of a long ram intake

["'Andy Mikonis' via Chrysler 300 Club International" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I generally agree with  - or defer to - Grady, but on this I say ‘yes’ on a hobby car you don’t need exhaust heat for textbook choke operation. 

BUT after driving a G with no exhaust heat on the carbs for 18 years in two different North American climates, and then driving it for the last 20 years with carb heat, I can tell you that you do need some heat on the carbs for drivability. Unless your ambient is over about 80 degrees.


> On Oct 3, 2025, at 6:38 PM, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> 
> remove  the exhaust heat set up
> close the bottom with covers . do not  need it unless driving below 35 out and even then it is ok as whole engine soon warms up . convert to electric  chokes .
> Causes way more tuning trouble than any minor gain
> 
> I bet fully 1/2 of ram 300 ‘ are driving around  with full exhaust heat stuck on .
> Two F i had over the years were burned through , figured it out 50 years ago when I could not get a good idle no matter what I did — lots of time and  $ wasted chasing imaginary carb problems.   Later found hole like that one you show Even when “ working   right   “ it is a sad joke as both sides never stay in sync .
> One  choke going off before other gives loping  idle  and stalls .
> 
> When parked , with a working  exhaust flap , it   closes forcing exhaust through the rams at the next cold start ;
> 
> however when parked a long   time say over winter , shaft rusts solid to manifold, never to open again on its own . The car runs  awful     and  one banzai run with it closed melts ram , vacuum gone cannot be made to idle right . This thing  was absolutely was half   baked  at release  ,,why so many  rams were pulled  due to undriveable by average non enthusiast  person  during warmup .
> 
> I watched this as a kid , hot rodders bought pulled rams  or they ended up in trunk
> 
> We all cut it slack. because we  love  the car
> 
> So bad Chrysler dropped  it in 62 , when it came back  on J snd K no heat riser valve
> modern cars do not  have  them..
> 
> Edelbrock makes  a big  deal of “ Air gap intake “ 1000’s in use no heat in it at all , solid metal joining the intake passages to  manifold head fastening is all removed  , so air blows over and under  it just like ram . Performance advantage claimed with cooler charge ,( correct)  modern gas does not need 1930’s “ hot spot” in fact opposite problem now  , evaporates in carb
> Even mopar went water heat on race rams, 400 hp F  
> YMMV
> You can hear the characteristic rattle when free , — no rattle = stuck shaft . Tie it open  . Be happy
> jkg
> 
> 
>> On Oct 3, 2025, at 4:06 PM, 'dave mason' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Jay
>> Due to the nature of your burn through, check and ensure your exhaust heat riser valve is working on that side… your counterweight should flop forward when warm- make sure it is moving.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Oct 3, 2025, at 13:16, 'Jay Williamson' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hello,
>>> 
>>> Are there any Leeds on a drivers side 300 F intake manifold? Mine is burnt through.
>>> Or, has anybody ever had one of these repaired?
>>> 
>>> Thanks
>>> 
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> <image0.jpeg>
> <image1.jpeg>
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Jay Williamson
>>> 317-223-1379
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