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There are 18 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re:listserver.
From: "David Agnew" <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx>
2. FW: Plastic Cam Gears
From: john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx
3. Re: FW: Plastic Cam Gears
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
4. Re: FW: Plastic Cam Gears
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
5. No news
From: Frank_MacInnis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
6. medallions in stock
From: "Bob at Simplex" <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. '60 trans mount rebuild?
From: "David Schwandt" <finsrus@xxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Temp sending unit
From: Redwoodlse@xxxxxxx
9. Re: Temp sending unit
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Water Temp Sensor Location
From: "JOHN MC ADAMS" <clafong@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: '60 trans mount rebuild?
From: "Richard Osborne" <richard@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: '60 trans mount rebuild?
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. C300 Radio Restoration
From: "PaddyCaddy ." <paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Radio Restoration
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. yearly picnic in Sag Harbor
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: C300 Radio Restoration
From: jrcote56@xxxxxxx
17. Re: Radio Restoration
From: mr-320@xxxxxxxxx
18. Re: Radio Restoration
From: paulholm <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 21:47:22 +1200
From: "David Agnew" <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re:listserver.
a profoundly perplexing observation;
hi, all 4 of you;
the inconsistency of the listserver continues to baffle me;
one day its hot and heavy with over 30 entries and the very next only 4:
AMAZING
JEFF
tucson az.
Jeff,
Not even did the almighty work 24/7.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 06:12:09 -0600
From: john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: FW: Plastic Cam Gears
Hi folks,
I've been following a rather lengthy thread on another listserver for Jensen Interceptor owners concerning plastic cam gears. I understand this is not an issue for my 61 413 motor, but my Jensen 440 might be affected. I'd like to (re)-aquire a Hurst someday, and am wondering what the 300 community has to say regarding these plastic gears.
My Jensen only has 25,000 miles on it and runs like a top, and has never had more than oil changes and tune-ups done to it. I'd rather not rip it apart if it's not necessary. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: hal kendall [mailto:hkendall@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 11:28 PM
To: jensen-cars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: Plastic Cam Gears
Following this thread - the article, below, authored by Mike Lotwis, was
printed and reprinted in the WL collection.
Plastic Cam Gears
This article should have been written a long time ago, but with Interceptors
at least five years old now, and most having at least 50,000 miles or more,
it's more important than ever. All Interceptor 383 and 440 Chrysler engines
have plastic lined camshaft timing gears. Due to not only heat and mileage,
but also age regardless of mileage, these plastic teeth chip away and one
day the engine just doesn't start or stops while running, bending a few push
rods and valves. When enough plastic teeth have chipped away, the timing
chain just spins on the stripped gear, not allowing the camshaft to turn,
thus gross mis-timing.
As a couple of you club members have attested to me (one just one week
before it happened), every club member should immediately consider letting
your mechanic change the timing chain and plastic cam gear to an all metal
gear. Not only will this save some pride or towing bill someday, but more
important, a possible complete expensive engine rebuild.
An aftermarket TRW all metal cam timing gear is available under Part
#SS366T, the T indicating all iron metal gear. A TRW TC501 timing chain and
SS367 ironshaft gear should also be changed at the same time. These parts
are more than adequate for stock engines, but for you high performance
buffs, both Chrysler and TRW make double roller timing chains and all metal
gears.
As club member Dr. Gordon in Conn. will confirm, he was driving down the
highway one day a few months ago, when the engine just stopped. Further
examination showed that not only had the plastic timing gear shear its
teeth, but quite a few push rods and valves had been bent. This required
removing the heads and doing a valve job. Dr. Gordon's late 1974 brown
Interceptor III only had 35,000 miles on it.
So you see, it's not just mileage but age of the car.
GET THOSE PLASTIC CAM TIMING GEARS CHANGED NOW!
=============
Hal Kendall, PT1-75
_______________________________________________________________________
Courtesy the Jensen-cars mailing list. Subscribe and unsubscribe
info at: <http://www.british-steel.org/faq/jensen-cars.html>.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 09:28:45 -0400
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: FW: Plastic Cam Gears
Hi John and All,
The gear in question is not actually plastic. Original gears on big blocks
dating back to the mid sixties had the gear teeth molded from a plastic like
compound. It was done to quiet things down. Some lasted a long time. I
replaced the timing chain and gears on my 69 440 with 84,000 miles and the
gear was fine. I've done others where there were almost no teeth left! An
easy way to check is to line up the mark on the damper, and turn the
crankshaft back and forth until you feel the resistance of the cam. You
should have no more than 1/2 inch play. Works for all types of timing chains
set-ups. It's still cheap maintenance for the peace of mind.
300ly,
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: <john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2002 8:12 AM
Subject: [Chrysler300] FW: Plastic Cam Gears
> Hi folks,
> I've been following a rather lengthy thread on another listserver for
Jensen Interceptor owners concerning plastic cam gears. I understand this
is not an issue for my 61 413 motor, but my Jensen 440 might be affected.
I'd like to (re)-aquire a Hurst someday, and am wondering what the 300
community has to say regarding these plastic gears.
> My Jensen only has 25,000 miles on it and runs like a top, and has never
had more than oil changes and tune-ups done to it. I'd rather not rip it
apart if it's not necessary. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
> John
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: hal kendall [mailto:hkendall@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 11:28 PM
> To: jensen-cars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: Plastic Cam Gears
>
>
> Following this thread - the article, below, authored by Mike Lotwis, was
> printed and reprinted in the WL collection.
>
> Plastic Cam Gears
> This article should have been written a long time ago, but with
Interceptors
> at least five years old now, and most having at least 50,000 miles or
more,
> it's more important than ever. All Interceptor 383 and 440 Chrysler
engines
> have plastic lined camshaft timing gears. Due to not only heat and
mileage,
> but also age regardless of mileage, these plastic teeth chip away and one
> day the engine just doesn't start or stops while running, bending a few
push
> rods and valves. When enough plastic teeth have chipped away, the timing
> chain just spins on the stripped gear, not allowing the camshaft to turn,
> thus gross mis-timing.
>
> As a couple of you club members have attested to me (one just one week
> before it happened), every club member should immediately consider letting
> your mechanic change the timing chain and plastic cam gear to an all metal
> gear. Not only will this save some pride or towing bill someday, but more
> important, a possible complete expensive engine rebuild.
>
> An aftermarket TRW all metal cam timing gear is available under Part
> #SS366T, the T indicating all iron metal gear. A TRW TC501 timing chain
and
> SS367 ironshaft gear should also be changed at the same time. These parts
> are more than adequate for stock engines, but for you high performance
> buffs, both Chrysler and TRW make double roller timing chains and all
metal
> gears.
>
> As club member Dr. Gordon in Conn. will confirm, he was driving down the
> highway one day a few months ago, when the engine just stopped. Further
> examination showed that not only had the plastic timing gear shear its
> teeth, but quite a few push rods and valves had been bent. This required
> removing the heads and doing a valve job. Dr. Gordon's late 1974 brown
> Interceptor III only had 35,000 miles on it.
>
> So you see, it's not just mileage but age of the car.
>
> GET THOSE PLASTIC CAM TIMING GEARS CHANGED NOW!
> =============
> Hal Kendall, PT1-75
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> Courtesy the Jensen-cars mailing list. Subscribe and unsubscribe
> info at: <http://www.british-steel.org/faq/jensen-cars.html>.
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 09:42:57 -0400
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: FW: Plastic Cam Gears
Hi Again,
Another thing to remember is that all those little pieces of timing gear
(and old valve seals) eventually end up in the oil pump pickup. While the
screen keeps them from coming through, they slow oil flow down considerably.
If I was buying a car with an original engine, I would change the timing set
and drop the pan to check things out.
300ly,
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Verity <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; <john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2002 9:28 AM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] FW: Plastic Cam Gears
> Hi John and All,
> The gear in question is not actually plastic. Original gears on big
blocks
> dating back to the mid sixties had the gear teeth molded from a plastic
like
> compound. It was done to quiet things down. Some lasted a long time. I
> replaced the timing chain and gears on my 69 440 with 84,000 miles and the
> gear was fine. I've done others where there were almost no teeth left! An
> easy way to check is to line up the mark on the damper, and turn the
> crankshaft back and forth until you feel the resistance of the cam. You
> should have no more than 1/2 inch play. Works for all types of timing
chains
> set-ups. It's still cheap maintenance for the peace of mind.
> 300ly,
> Don
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 10:08:05 -0400
From: Frank_MacInnis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: No news
I haven't heard from the Club in a while- - is there a server problem?
Incidentally, I've found a source of racing gasoline in Bridgeport, CT for
anyone in that area who wants to treat their 300 to a taste of the real
stuff.
- - Frank MacInnis
This message is for the named person's use only. It may contain
confidential, proprietary or legally privileged information. No
confidentiality or privilege is waived or lost by any mistransmission. If
you receive this message in error, please immediately delete it and all
copies of it from your system, destroy any hard copies of it and notify the
sender. You must not, directly or indirectly, use, disclose, distribute,
print, or copy any part of this message if you are not the intended
recipient.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 12:05:19 -0400
From: "Bob at Simplex" <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: medallions in stock
The club store now has the grille medallions for the '60 300F and '61 300G
in stock. The '62 300 medallions are still not available, but will be within
the next few weeks. the price for each is $50.00, including postage in the
U.S. Canada and foreign postage will be slightly higher depending if
shipping goes Atlantic or Pacific sides of the world.
These medallions are better than original.
Your Club Store
Chrysler 300 Club International
4900 Jonesville Rd
Jonesville, MI., 19250-9439
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 11:18:35 -0500
From: "David Schwandt" <finsrus@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: '60 trans mount rebuild?
Hi Gang,.
Finally got the F out yesterday to get ready for local 150 year celebration parade. Did the normal oil change, grease job, underside inspection etc. Noticed the trans mount was all mushed out and oil soaked so I dove into my parts bins and came up with an NOS one and installed it.
Question....does anyone know of or ever heard of place that can reconstruct the old mounts with new rubber? Seems to me that would be a logical thing to want to have done. I have another or two for the C and D when the time comes but am keeping the old cores for rebuild should this ever become a possibility.
The old F looks fair I guess for an 18 year old paint job. Sure needs a fresh paint job though. Maybe I'll change colors this time, white maybe....
Later.....
Carolyn and I both wish everyone a safe and sane holiday week!!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 13:14:55 EDT
From: Redwoodlse@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Temp sending unit
Almost any location that has hot water behind it can be drilled and tapped
for a temp pickup. I did so on my 413 on the 300L in order to add a digital
water temp guage in the ash tray. I hired a machine shop to do it but could
have done it myself with the proper tap. Can't recall exactly where the hole
was made but it was on the housing that the water pump is bolted to I think.
Larry W Jett
950 Woodside Road Suite 4
Redwood City CA 94061
650 368 3966
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 10:36:33 -0700
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Temp sending unit
Neal, I have never had a temp sensor fail on any of my vehicles so
accessability has never been an issue for me. I've replaced countless
water-pumps and thermostats over the years and there really isn't an easy
way to move those to a more convenient place either. No matter what,
something will always be in the way.
To entertain your question though, you could move the sensor to another area
but it would then give you a different type of reading. The temperature is
monitored at the water-neck (thermostat housing)where the water is exiting
the engine and it is at it's hottest but it is also away from the heat
source which is important for an accurate water temperature reading. If you
took a reading from the water jackets around the cylinders you would find
higher temperatures because of the block temperature. Conversely, if you
took a reading from the radiator you would find lower temps.
The other problem is that of plumbing......you would need to find a deep
well to tap into to install a temp sensor. Manifold temperature and block
temperature can also be monitored separately from other areas but that is
mainly done on marine engines. I know our cars seem like boats sometimes but
I don't think you would ever really need to do that.
Well, that's my 2 cents worth! Have a great day 300 fans. Ryan
_________________________________________________________________
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 11:12:51 -0700
From: "JOHN MC ADAMS" <clafong@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Water Temp Sensor Location
Hi all:
I have had temperature sensor location problems in the past on other makes of engines. In particular, I remember having a small block F**D. One day, I ruptured a lower radiator hose and lost the coolant from the block. The location of the temperature sensor (which was located in the block) was such that when the coolant was gone, the sensor did not indicate any problem. The sensor had not failed as when I fixed the hose and refilled the radiator, the temp sensor worked fine. It seemed to require the circulation of water around it to indicate the proper temperature. When the coolant was gone, the surrounding air in the block was not conductive enough to indicate the corresponding temperature.
I would be careful in relocating the temperature sensor. If necessary, make sure that it is located somewhere that the coolant is constantly circulating around it. Stay away from any place that might provide a void or pocket of air.
I have also never had one fail. But things do wear out and if you have A/C, you really have to look hard to even see that sensor under the compressor. When the compressor got replaced, I replaced the sensor while I could get to it.
I like the idea from Larry Jett about putting a digital readout in the ashtray.
That was probably my three cents worth.
John Mc Adams
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 21:09:23 -0400
From: "Richard Osborne" <richard@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: '60 trans mount rebuild?
David,
I think I saw that Steel Rubber Parts does this on the T.V. show "My
Classic Car". Their web site is www.steelerubber.com . I have never used
them so cannot vouch for their quality.
Best regards,
Richard Osborne
>>> "David Schwandt" <finsrus@xxxxxxxx> 06/27/02 12:18PM >>>
Hi Gang,.
Finally got the F out yesterday to get ready for local 150 year
celebration parade. Did the normal oil change, grease job, underside
inspection etc. Noticed the trans mount was all mushed out and oil
soaked so I dove into my parts bins and came up with an NOS one and
installed it.
Question....does anyone know of or ever heard of place that can
reconstruct the old mounts with new rubber? Seems to me that would be a
logical thing to want to have done. I have another or two for the C and
D when the time comes but am keeping the old cores for rebuild should
this ever become a possibility.
The old F looks fair I guess for an 18 year old paint job. Sure needs a
fresh paint job though. Maybe I'll change colors this time, white
maybe....
Later.....
Carolyn and I both wish everyone a safe and sane holiday week!!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
To send a message to this group, send an email to:
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 18:39:29 -0700
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: '60 trans mount rebuild?
Steele Rubber is a good supplier.
Gary
At 06:09 PM 6/27/02, Richard Osborne wrote:
>David,
>
>I think I saw that Steel Rubber Parts does this on the T.V. show "My
>Classic Car". Their web site is www.steelerubber.com . I have never used
>them so cannot vouch for their quality.
>
>Best regards,
>
>Richard Osborne
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 21:58:26 -0400
From: "PaddyCaddy ." <paddycaddy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: C300 Radio Restoration
Bob listed a number of rebuilders on the website that could restore our
old radios to original working condition and appearance.
Does anyone have any input - good or bad - about any of them, or anyone
else who could do this...
thanks, Sean (still a little jet-lagged..)
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 22:31:08 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Radio Restoration
Hi Sean,
I have been using Antique Automobile Radio in Florida ; but, I must add that
I have had all radios sent to them converted to AM-FM high power stereo . I
just don't get much enjoyment from AM radio, and I really get a kick out of
the "stock" look yet the modern guts inside the radio !
A quick comment: I have had no problems with the conversions EXCEPT with 65
and younger Chryslers . The older Exner Chryslers seem to have a much
better charging and electrical system than the newer Engle design ! The
problem, as with my 300L, is that the voltage drops to about 9 volts at IDLE
. That is not enough for the transistorized, late model guts in the radio,
and it results in annoying pops and clicks everytime the turn signals, or
brake lights, are activated when the car is idling - especially at night
when theheadlights are on. But I have never encountered this problem in 1960
and 1961 Chrysler, for instance.
The 300L is really bad that way, and so is my friend Bob's 66 Newport and
his 66 300 convert. The ammeter needle will go to discharge at idle,
especially ( but not only) at night, and the headlights dim quite a bit when
the car is at idle. If the a/c happens to be on, forget it ! The ammeter
needle goes to full discharge. Ground straps, new batt. cables have not
helped in any way.
To figure out if this will be a problem with YOUR car, connect a voltmeter
to the fusebox and read the voltage at idle, with the headlights on.
John
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 22:36:10 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: yearly picnic in Sag Harbor
Hi to all,
Now one week away from our annual picnic. I am looking forward to seeing
many of you in Sag Harbor, on the 4th of July. If you are planning on
attending and have not RSVP's yet, please do so - Helen and I would
appreciate knowing how many are coming.
Unfortunately, the Club News issue that had the picnic announcement has not
appeared yet; only those reachable by e-mail have gotten word. If you have
any Club member friends that are not on the listserver, please let them
know !
Sincerely,
John and Helen
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 23:04:24 EDT
From: jrcote56@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: C300 Radio Restoration
Antique Automobile Radio in Florida did nice job for me on a '56 Radio T&C
signal seeker. I had FM added while still maintaining AM option. Expensive
but works great.
300ly,
John Cote
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 23:13:17 -0700 (MST)
From: mr-320@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Radio Restoration
hi john; i agree with you on the alt system situation, i leave
it to you as whether to pose this to all. there is a cure that a lot of
the purists wont like. EVERYTHING i own has the mod on it as i too
dislike dim lights at idle. it turns out that the mopar 100 amp
alternator, in all instances ive tried, continues to maintain a 14 volt
system at what i use as an idle speed. this, of course, depends a bit on
the regulator, and ive had ''bad'' regs. the 100 amp alt also has the
side benefit of extending batery life as it really kicks the state of
charge in the butt and recharges QUICKLY and completely which seems to
have a very beneficial effect on the life of the batt, dont ask me y!!
another serendipitous effect is that ive yet to have other than a brg.
failure on the 100 amp units, they see to b much better built
electrically and dont go bad, even wound to 6500 now and then.
i very highly recommend the mopar 100 amp alternator, its all
but bulletproof, electrically and mechanically!!
JEFF
tucson az.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 01:20:01 -0500
From: paulholm <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Radio Restoration
mr-320@xxxxxxxxx wrote:
> hi john; i agree with you on the alt system situation, i leave
> it to you as whether to pose this to all. there is a cure that
> a lot of the purists wont like. EVERYTHING i own has the mod on
> it as i too dislike dim lights at idle. it turns out that the
> mopar 100 amp alternator, in all instances ive tried, continues
> to maintain a 14 volt system at what i use as an idle speed.
> this, of course, depends a bit on the regulator, and ive had
> ''bad'' regs. the 100 amp alt also has the side benefit of
> extending batery life as it really kicks the state of
> charge in the butt and recharges QUICKLY and completely which
> seems to have a very beneficial effect on the life of the batt,
> dont ask me y!! another serendipitous effect is that ive yet to
> have other than a brg. failure on the 100 amp units, they see to
> be much better built electrically and dont go bad, even wound to
> 6500 now and then.
> I very highly recommend the mopar 100 amp alternator, its all
> but bulletproof, electrically and mechanically!!
> JEFF
> tucson az.
Should anyone feel adventurous I have one of these things
collecting dust in the storage unit.
--
Paul Holmgren
Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
2 57 300-C's in Indy
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
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