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There are 13 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. (no subject)
From: MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx
2. Re: 300c
From: "Laurence G. Johnson" <laurence_g_johnson@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: 300C vapour lock?
From: "John L. Chesnutt" <chesnutt@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Radio
From: "Hansen" <hansen.rehab@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: 300c
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Problem with indicator lights on my, 65 300. Still looking for another for part
From: Py426Hemi@xxxxxxx
7. Masking advice - anybody got any tricks?
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. maskjing
From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: 300L Rocker Panels
From: "Steve Galezowski" <stevenlulu@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Tie Rod Setting?
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: '55 Ballast Resistor
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: '55 Ballast Resistor
From: Redwoodlse@xxxxxxx
13. Vapour lock / fuel quality
From: Oddvin Skråmestø <ragtopman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 22:17:57 EDT
From: MJMLandDev@xxxxxxx
Subject: (no subject)
Happy New Year to all members of the tribe. May all our 300's be inscribed
in the Book of Life for the next year and many years to come.
Mike Meyer
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 22:32:38 -0400
From: "Laurence G. Johnson" <laurence_g_johnson@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300c
Here are some things to look at when the engine runs out of fuel idling. The
root causes of this problem are - low fuel level in either or both carbs, -
low intake manifold vacuum insufficient to support the idle circuits in the
carbs.
- Plug a vacuum gage into the intake anywhere below the carb throttle
plates and read the vacuum level at idle with throttle plates closed.
If the vacuum is above approx 15 ins, move on. If low, look for an
intake vacuum leak at the cylinder head gaskets, or the carb base
gaskets, or in any of the attached vacuum hoses. If OK, suspect the
new camshaft. It could have too much duration or overlap which kills
intake vacuum. It could also be installed wrong, a couple of teeth
off will lower the vacuum too. If nothing here, move on the the
carbs.
- These old WCFB's have brass sight plugs on the driver side which can
be remover allowing you to observe the fuel levels in all 4 float
bowls. Take them out and look for low fuel levels in the carbs. The
fuel should just wet the threads at the bottom of the sight holes.
If not, reset the float levels accordingly. Check the needle/seat
assemblies to confirm that they are tight and haven't backed off
lowering the float level. Good luck..
>
>I just finished installing a rebuilt (original engine) in my C. The cam
>was
>ground to original specs by iskenderian. Carbs are rebuilt (cleaned,new
>gasket and seats),and all ignition parts new. The car starts instantly,
>but
>I can't get the idle low enough without stalling. It does run well at a
>fast
>idle. It runs for about 5-10 sec and then simply can't get enough gas to
>idle. Touching the accelerator linkage gives it a little gas from the
>accelerator pump and it keeps running again for 5-10 seconds. When it is
>fully warmed up, It is better, but not good enough. Turning the bleeders
>out
>doesn' t seem to help except I'm not sure how to do both carbs at the same
>time. Anyone have any ideas? The car idled well before the rebuild with
>the
>same carbs. Does the overbore with the new cam cause a change in the low
>speed jets? I'm open for ideas Thanks Vince
>
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 20:59:47 -0700
From: "John L. Chesnutt" <chesnutt@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300C vapour lock?
A vapor lock does not appear to be the problem with your 300C. Your engine
stalls at idle.
It sounds like you are flooding out at idle which could be due to the needle
and seat not shutting off the fuel.
.
Laurence G. Johnson is on the right track. Check the fuel level in the
carbs.
Your original needle and seat were all brass. Carter Carburetor redesigned
the needle so it would not leak. They put out a General Service Bulletin No.
531, March, 1960 - Subject: NEW RUBBER TIPPED FUEL INLET NEEDLE AND SEAT
Part 25-392 Used on Carburetors for Chrysler Corp. The Conventional (Bass
on Brass) - had leakage past the needle caused by Dirt Particles, The New
Rubber Tip Needle fixes that problem "because of its resilient sealing
surface the needle tip will make a tight seal even with fuel contamination
by iron oxide and other dirt particles. "
In 1960, the suggested list price for Part 25-392S was $3.29.
I purchased my 300C in July 1958 and had the very same problem you
experience. I replaced the needle and seats in both carbs. That fixed the
problem.
John & Arlys Chesnutt, Portland, OR.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oddvin Skråmestø" <ragtopman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2002 2:25 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] 300C vapour lock?
> Hi.
> This summer we have had the hotest summer ever here in Norway, several
days with temperatures over 82F. Driving my 300C in this temperature, the
engine stalls when idling, like stopping at traffic lights etc. After a
minor stop or driving at a slow section on the road, the car hesitates when
accelerating. It seems like a fuelpump failure, but only when hot. At
startup cold, and at continuous high speed driving the car acts normal. When
the car stops, it give me a hard time trying to make it run. I have never
had this kind of trouble before, and I have also driven the car at high
temperatures before too. Can a fuelpump start to fail when hot? Or is the
heat making a vapour lock at the pump. The pump is 12 years old, could this
be the first sign of wear?.
> I'm planning to install an electric fuelpump to assist the original, and
to help filling up the carbs after the winter rest.
> What brand and type should I buy? Anyone with experience on this?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Oddvin Skråmestø
> Norway.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
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http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
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>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 23:43:06 -0500
From: "Hansen" <hansen.rehab@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Radio
I am looking for a 7 button radio for a 61, doesn't have to be working but it does need nice buttons with good chrome and a good face.
Thanks
Brian
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 21:47:37 -0700
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300c
Vince
One more thing to look at that has not been mentioned. If not very careful
when rebuilding carbs it is easy to have a float dragging on side of float
bowl. All it takes is one of the eight floats dragging and it will flood at
idle and stall. Give it a little throttle and it will clean up as you
described. Then it will flood and stall again. When I am setting float
height with air horn upside down I look straight down over each float to
make sure they are centered between the gasket on each side. The connector
bar between floats is very easy to bend and unknowingly will drag on side
of bowl.
This happened to me. Before you do anything drastic, worth looking into.
Good luck.
Gary
At 10:32 PM 9/15/2002 -0400, Laurence G. Johnson wrote:
>Here are some things to look at when the engine runs out of fuel idling. The
>root causes of this problem are - low fuel level in either or both carbs, -
>low intake manifold vacuum insufficient to support the idle circuits in the
>carbs.
>
>- Plug a vacuum gage into the intake anywhere below the carb throttle
> plates and read the vacuum level at idle with throttle plates closed.
> If the vacuum is above approx 15 ins, move on. If low, look for an
> intake vacuum leak at the cylinder head gaskets, or the carb base
> gaskets, or in any of the attached vacuum hoses. If OK, suspect the
> new camshaft. It could have too much duration or overlap which kills
> intake vacuum. It could also be installed wrong, a couple of teeth
> off will lower the vacuum too. If nothing here, move on the the
> carbs.
>
>- These old WCFB's have brass sight plugs on the driver side which can
> be remover allowing you to observe the fuel levels in all 4 float
> bowls. Take them out and look for low fuel levels in the carbs. The
> fuel should just wet the threads at the bottom of the sight holes.
> If not, reset the float levels accordingly. Check the needle/seat
> assemblies to confirm that they are tight and haven't backed off
> lowering the float level. Good luck..
>
>
> >
> >I just finished installing a rebuilt (original engine) in my C. The cam
> >was
> >ground to original specs by iskenderian. Carbs are rebuilt (cleaned,new
> >gasket and seats),and all ignition parts new. The car starts instantly,
> >but
> >I can't get the idle low enough without stalling. It does run well at a
> >fast
> >idle. It runs for about 5-10 sec and then simply can't get enough gas to
> >idle. Touching the accelerator linkage gives it a little gas from the
> >accelerator pump and it keeps running again for 5-10 seconds. When it is
> >fully warmed up, It is better, but not good enough. Turning the bleeders
> >out
> >doesn' t seem to help except I'm not sure how to do both carbs at the same
> >time. Anyone have any ideas? The car idled well before the rebuild with
> >the
> >same carbs. Does the overbore with the new cam cause a change in the low
> >speed jets? I'm open for ideas Thanks Vince
> >
>
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
>
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 02:24:11 EDT
From: Py426Hemi@xxxxxxx
Subject: Problem with indicator lights on my, 65 300. Still looking for another for part
Hi Gang!
I hope someone could help me out! I am working on my 65 plan 300 I have no
indicator lights or fuel gauge, Amp gauge seems to work OK. I have checked
all my light-bulbs, my wiring, grounds & etc. I have a feeling I could have a
cracked P.C board. I don't want to pull the cluster out if someone else has
anther idea I could try.
I also have Speedo lights too that work fine, I that helps.
Still in need of another 2 door 65 Chrysler 300, Newport Or NY for parts!
Car must all there.
Thanks
Wes
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 23:59:23 -0700
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Masking advice - anybody got any tricks?
Group, I know some of you do your own bodywork and paint as I do so
hopefully someone will have a good solution for my problem. I have painted
the firewall, door sills, inner fenders, rad support, inner doors, etc.
prior to reassembly on my '65 300. Now that I have aligned the doors,
fenders, trunk lid, and hood I'm wanting to continue blocking out the body
and finishing the final bodywork on the outer body.
My problem is that I need an efficient way of sealing the doors, hood, and
trunk so the building primer/sealer I'm laying over the body doesn't ruin my
finished paintwork on the inside of the door jambs and under the hood. I've
done my share of masking in the past but never has it needed to be this
good, I'm looking for perfection here......no overspray! Any suggestions?
I've considered buying foam piping and squeezing it or taping it at the
seams.......might work well for the hood and trunk but not sure about the
doors.
I'm also interested in restoring my original window gaskets, is there a
cleaner that will disolve old sealer and clean the rubber without damaging
or deteriorating the rubber? Are there any nice fitting aftermarket gaskets
available for the '65? Recent emails have been warning of poor reproductions
of the earlier Chrysler gaskets. Has anyone used the ones Steele Rubber
Products offer......their weatherstripping is very nice!
Any help or advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Ryan Hill
_________________________________________________________________
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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 09:04:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: maskjing
3M makes a foam tape for this masking
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx> | This
is Spam | Add to Address Book
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 23:59:23 -0700
Subject: [Chrysler300] Masking advice - anybody got
any tricks?
Group, I know some of you do your own bodywork and
paint as I do so
hopefully someone will have a good solution for my
problem. I have painted
the firewall, door sills, inner fenders, rad support,
inner doors, etc.
prior to reassembly on my '65 300. Now that I have
aligned the doors,
fenders, trunk lid, and hood I'm wanting to continue
blocking out the body
and finishing the final bodywork on the outer body.
My problem is that I need an efficient way of sealing
the doors, hood, and
trunk so the building primer/sealer I'm laying over
the body doesn't ruin my
finished paintwork on the inside of the door jambs and
under the hood. I've
done my share of masking in the past but never has it
needed to be this
good, I'm looking for perfection here......no
overspray! Any suggestions?
I've considered buying foam piping and squeezing it or
taping it at the
seams.......might work well for the hood and trunk but
not sure about the
doors.
I'm also interested in restoring my original window
gaskets, is there a
cleaner that will disolve old sealer and clean the
rubber without damaging
or deteriorating the rubber? Are there any nice
fitting aftermarket gaskets
available for the '65? Recent emails have been warning
of poor reproductions
of the earlier Chrysler gaskets. Has anyone used the
ones Steele Rubber
Products offer......their weatherstripping is very
nice!
Any help or advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Ryan
Hill
=====
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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 12:49:58 -0400
From: "Steve Galezowski" <stevenlulu@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300L Rocker Panels
Wow Ryan, you are good! There was lead in all of those places and it was
rather poorly finished. In fact, I had argued with the body man that it
can't be factory but he insisted it was. I asked him smooth out the finish
to make it better than factory. I don't think it hurts originality since I'm
sure there must have been some cars that were produced with good finishes on
these seams. And I agree that I don't want people looking at the car
thinking there was sloppy body work done (as I did when I purchased the car
and got the seller to reduce his price because of it!).
Thanks for your comments, Ryan.
Steve Galezowski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <steveg@xxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2002 5:55 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300L Rocker Panels
> Steve, I guess I had not mentioned the factory filled areas on the cars
were
> done in lead and are often very poorly finished. The rear of the rocker
> panels as you might have noticed are pretty rough and usually the seams at
> the top of the quarter panels(between the rear window and the trunk lid)
are
> pretty wavey. You'll also find lead over the rear taillights in the
corners
> and in the front fenders over the headlights.
>
> I've been trying to make a decision about what to do with these factory
> filled spots.....if I smooth them out it won't be original and stock but
if
> I leave them the majority of people will just think the bodywork was done
> poorly. What a dilema.........
>
> As for the healpad queery, I'm not sure what the Legendary healpads look
> like but I'm sure curious. If you are buying from Legendary, please let me
> know if they are correct heelpads and if they come with the jute
> padding(sound deadener). I might order another set and use the Goers
carpet
> in my other '65 300. By the way, all '65 300's (letter and non-letter)
have
> the same healpads on both sides in case you do need to locate a clean
> original set. There are really only a few very minor differences between
the
> 'L' and the regular 300's other than the 413 powerplant. The only
differnece
> inside is the emblem on the console door.
>
> Talk to you soon. Ryan Hill
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Join the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
> http://www.hotmail.com
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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 12:13:48 -0500
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Tie Rod Setting?
Maybe an easier way: Have the jam nuts loose, and take a measurement between
the tires. Pick a rib on the right and measure to the same rib on the left.
Now do the same for the back of the tire. try to get as high as possable
from the floor, (you're looking to do it across the center line) adjust
(twist) tie-rods to give you some slight toe-IN. Front tire measurement 1/8"
or so narrower then the rear of front tires. Try to have both sides equal
between tie-rod ends.
As Gary said the caster and camber need to be set when it's aligned. SOON
Regards to all, Ray Jones
> From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 20:46:48 -0700
> To: gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx, chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Tie Rod Setting?
>
> Hi Matt and all
>
> When you are doing a guesstimate on toe out you do not go by the amount of
> threads. The rule of thumb I have used since I was a kid, (that was a long
> time ago) you have the front of the tires 1/8" further apart than the back.
> This can be accomplished by jacking front of car, take an awl or other
> sharp point, spin ea. tire and make a mark on the rubber near center.
> Adjust rod end adjusters close to equal until the front set of lines on
> tires are 1/8" further apart than back measurement. This should keep the
> car tracking straight and not drifting side to side till you get to an
> alignment shop. As kids that was it. Never went to alignment shop. Don't
> recommend that as you need both caster and camber checked to do it right.
>
> Gary, The Parts Doc
>
> At 06:39 PM 9/11/2002 -0700, Jennifer Allyn wrote:
>> I just installed new inner & outer tie rods, with new adjusting sleeves.
>>
>> Anyone know an approximate measurement of how much threads should show,
>> until I can get to an alignment shop?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Matt Allyn
>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>
>> For list server instructions, go to
>> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>
>>
>>
>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
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>
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>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 12:32:31 -0500
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: '55 Ballast Resistor
Take the solenoid apart, turn the copper disc in the back 90 degrees. It
should look burned and pitted.. Clean the contacts that touch it. This makes
it "new". Reassemble and it'll work.
Good luck, Ray Jones
> From: "Thomas L. DeBusk" <cfdebusk@xxxxxx>
> Reply-To: cfdebusk@xxxxxx
> Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 00:14:30 -0400
> To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [Chrysler300] '55 Ballast Resistor
>
> Where is the ballast resistor on a '55 300? I'm still trying to get my
> '55 started. I do get a light when I hook a 6V test light from the coil
> negative to ground, so I doubt the problem is the ballast resistor.
>
> I took the starter off today and I'm taking it to get it tested. When I
> hooked it to the battery with jumper cables while off the car, the
> solenoid would kick the gear into position, but the starter wouldn't
> spin. Wonder if it's burned up inside?
>
> Thomas
>
> --
> 1952 Chrysler Saratoga club coupe
> 1955 Chrysler C300
> 1964 Dodge Custom 880 convertible
> 1967 AMC Ambassador DPL convertible
> 1968 Plymouth Fury III convertible
> 1980 Triumph TR7 convertible
> 1980 Triumph TR8 convertible
> 1983 Jeep Wagoneer Limited
> 1985 Jeep J10 pickup
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
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>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 13:48:30 EDT
From: Redwoodlse@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: '55 Ballast Resistor
Since these are a one year only switch, your advice is very good. These used
ones are very very scarce.
Larry W Jett
950 Woodside Road Suite 4
Redwood City CA 94061
650 368 3966
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 23:19:16 +0200
From: Oddvin Skråmestø <ragtopman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Vapour lock / fuel quality
Hi.
Thanks to all of you who gave me new inputs on this subject. I have not begun any troubleshooting yet, but I will soon.
One came up with the idea of fuel quality. That was the first thing that crossed my mind too, when this problem first occured.
As I recall back in the early '80's at "Car school", we learned about summer and winter fuel. Winter fuel was supposed to evaporate at lower temperature, than summer fuel. In those days most of the cars were still equiped with carburators, and needed fuel that evaporated eazy at cold start in the winter time. I was told that the oilcompanys mixed the fuel for each season and area, but how is it to day? Is there still a difference between summer and winter fuel?
I think I have winter fuel in my 300C. Thats my theory.
Thanks
Oddvin Skråmestø
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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