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There are 10 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Leaf Springs
From: mr-320@xxxxxxxxx
2. Trans Cable Leak Fix
From: mwl1967@xxxxxxx
3. Rams or 4 Speed on a K - But Not Both - Why?
From: moparpjf@xxxxxxx
4. holley carb. question
From: "my69300 <tubman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>" <tubman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. leaky carb.
From: "my69300 <tubman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>" <tubman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. 300B Transmission
From: Matts Wignell <wiggson@xxxxxxxxxx>
7. history of a 300H
From: "michael burke" <c300f@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. 1965 300
From: smkyjoexvi@xxxxxxx
9. Re: 1965 300
From: Robert Merritt <okbobwynmer@xxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: 1965 300
From: "Kelly Pierce" <jkrestor300@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 05:04:45 -0700 (MST)
From: mr-320@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Leaf Springs
i dont bother with re-arching, think its a waste of time and
money, they have sagged to where they are for a reason. what ive done
for the last 35 years is to get another identical, or close set of
springs, cut the curls off the main leaves and put the main in just
under the main [orig] and the first leaf of the donor in then the rest
of the orig spring pack; this lifts the car about 2 is inches and
greatly increases the rate and makes for a great set of springs that
will never sag a bit and work very well, for many years. just one [very
cheap] mans solution to the throwing money at springs dilemma..........
JEFF
tucson az.
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 11:10:04 EST
From: mwl1967@xxxxxxx
Subject: Trans Cable Leak Fix
Dee "J",
I've had leaking shift / park cables and found it due to:
1. The "O" ring where it fits into the trans... this is easily replaced
if
you've got a generic assortment of rings.
2. A spot in the cable housing that has worn through due to rubbing
against
something under the car for many years or melted through because it laid
on
the exhaust pipe... If this is the case you can save the cable and not
sweat
having to find a replacement.
- remove the cable from the car.. both from the trans and the
pushbuttons ( if you peek under the dash with a flashlight you'll see it's
no
big deal to remove from the button assembly )
- clean the cable , degreaser, laquer thinner, whatever
- replace the "O" ring on the trans end
- find the spot where the cable housing has worn through and get
some
electrical heat shrink tubing, slide it over the damaged area and seal
it
with a heat gun etc. This will seal the leak but take it one step further
to
protect the cable ...
- Get perhaps 4 feet of 5/16th rubber fuel hose and now spray the
trans shift cable and the inside of the rubber fuel line with silicone or
WD40. Slide the fuel line over the shift cable, put a clamp on each end
and
youre done. Leak gone... cable protected. Just don't go looking for
points
at a concourse judging.
good luck,
Mike Laiserin
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 12:54:42 EST
From: moparpjf@xxxxxxx
Subject: Rams or 4 Speed on a K - But Not Both - Why?
Hi Group:
During a recent discussion with another member, the subject of K's
came up, specifically the fact that one could get a K with rams or witth a
4
speed, but not both. Was this restriction a matter of space (I can see
where
the rams and the displaced brake cylinder might present a problem) or was
there another reason for not being able to get that combination?
Thanks,
Pete Fitch
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 2003 20:07:43 -0000
From: "my69300 <tubman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>" <tubman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: holley carb. question
The next problem I'm having is with my carb.(4160 holley
four barrel)
My first ? Is there freeze plugs on carburetors?
the reason I'm asking is on the secondary fuel bowl
I have a leak in what look to be a freeze plug.
Or do I need to just buy the housing for the
secondary fuel bowl?I just had this carb. rebuilt.
Any help would be GREAT.
THANKS Chris
69 300
convertable
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 2003 20:36:53 -0000
From: "my69300 <tubman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>" <tubman@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: leaky carb.
Pete thanks for the reply and I am planning to contact
the shop that I had the work done on Mon.
I guess my question should have been is there anyone
out there in 300 land that knows about the holley
4160?
I don't think where the leak is it would had anything
done to it.It looks like I might have a very small
hole/crack in the housing of the second fuel bowl.
Any info. on if this type of part can be ordered or
if I need to get a new carb. ?
Or even if I can repair it
Chris
69 300
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 23:14:24 +0100
From: Matts Wignell <wiggson@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300B Transmission
Hi folks,
Am I lucky or not? Got a call from a man who wanted to sell me a
torqueflite transmission. Told me the trans was for a 300C because this
was
written on the top. Went there today to check this out. But the number
didn't match the original 300C trans, BUT it had the number #182359!!!!!
So, now I don't know what to do, should I put this trans in to my C or
not?
Any suggestions? Or anyone interested to trade this trans for a #1854123.
Matts Wignell
3N571317
Sweden
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 09 Feb 2003 20:32:32 -0500
From: "michael burke" <c300f@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: history of a 300H
I am trying to contact a man who sold a 300H thru the club clearing house,
in summer of '94. The sellers name is David Gifford. He lived in Texas,
probably San Antonio. The car was referred to the clearing house by Jake
Shively. Would be interested in knowing location of either of these
individuals. Email me privately or call.Thank you
Michael Burke, Michigan
517-869-2651.
_________________________________________________________________
Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8.
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________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 21:51:01 EST
From: smkyjoexvi@xxxxxxx
Subject: 1965 300
Hi all
My name is Joe I'am a recent member and don't know a whole lot about
the
300 series of Chrysler auto's. I do have a question as to how to tell if
my
car is a letter series car. First let my tell you a little about the car
it
is a low mileage 65 model 71,000 miles and i'am the second owner. but any
help with what model the car is (whether it is a letter car or not would
be
helpful) the car was hit in the left rear corner at one time but very
well
repaired although i'm not sure the severity of the damage. The car does
not
have power windows or seats but it does have the letter series badges on
the
rear fenders but not on the front grille or the rear valence.
any help with what i've said will be greatly appreciated
joe
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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 19:41:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Robert Merritt <okbobwynmer@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 1965 300
At one time I owned both a 65 300L and a 65 300 nonletter at the same
time. The easiest way to tell is by the serial number. The non-letter
starts with C25 and the letter starts with C45. Another way is to look at
the rear of the car. The 300L has a round medallion on the fuel tank door
and the non-letter 300 has large numbers 300.
Let me know if you need more information.
Okie Bob
smkyjoexvi@xxxxxxx wrote: Hi all
My name is Joe I'am a recent member and don't know a whole lot about
the
300 series of Chrysler auto's. I do have a question as to how to tell if
my
car is a letter series car. First let my tell you a little about the car
it
is a low mileage 65 model 71,000 miles and i'am the second owner. but any
help with what model the car is (whether it is a letter car or not would
be
helpful) the car was hit in the left rear corner at one time but very
well
repaired although i'm not sure the severity of the damage. The car does
not
have power windows or seats but it does have the letter series badges on
the
rear fenders but not on the front grille or the rear valence.
any help with what i've said will be greatly appreciated
joe
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2003 20:41:59 -0700
From: "Kelly Pierce" <jkrestor300@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 1965 300
Hello Joe-
The letter cars serial numbers are different than non- letter 300's. If
your first 4 digits are C453 then it is a 300L. The fact the grille does
not
have the L style grille could mean it was damaged in a accident and a L
grille could not be found, and the same for the rear trim. If the serial
number is not as above then someone has put the quarter emblems from a L
on
your car.I have received a great deal of good info on the web server and I
am sure many members have thought some of my questions were pretty dumb-
but
as far as I am concerned when it comes to our 300's there is no such thing
as dumb questions. We all like to share our knowledge and info with the
club
members and occasionally a opinion or two as well! Let us know what you
have serial # wise and we'll know where to go from there. Joe Pierce
300Kx2+ others
----- Original Message -----
From: <smkyjoexvi@xxxxxxx>
To: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2003 7:51 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] 1965 300
> Hi all
>
> My name is Joe I'am a recent member and don't know a whole lot about
the
> 300 series of Chrysler auto's. I do have a question as to how to tell if
my
> car is a letter series car. First let my tell you a little about the car
it
> is a low mileage 65 model 71,000 miles and i'am the second owner. but
any
> help with what model the car is (whether it is a letter car or not would
be
> helpful) the car was hit in the left rear corner at one time but very
well
> repaired although i'm not sure the severity of the damage. The car does
not
> have power windows or seats but it does have the letter series badges on
the
> rear fenders but not on the front grille or the rear valence.
>
>
>
> any help with what i've said will be greatly appreciated
>
> joe
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
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