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There are 8 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. 57C tie rod ends
From: "David Zakarian" <arshog@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Chrysler news from California
From: joebril@xxxxxxx
3. 300K converiable question
From: Rinda Van Lennep <ednavan9@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: 57C tie rod ends
From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Another K Question
From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
6. Re: 57C tie rod ends
From: William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: 57C tie rod ends
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. 57 generator needed in place of ?
From: john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 08:18:21 -0700
From: "David Zakarian" <arshog@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 57C tie rod ends
Just got the C back from the body shop(after being rear ended in December)
and was going through withdrawals, so I crawled under it and decided to
check the torque on everything I could reach. When I got to the tie rod
ends, I put the wrench on the nut (from the stud coming up through the
steer knuckle) and turned. The whole stud turns making it impossible to
torque the nut to 40 Lbs. Is that stud supposed to turn? Any suggestions
on how to get the nut torqued and hold the stud from turning. Something
is wrong, I just can not put my finger on it. The taper doesn't seem to be
grabbing the stud and keeping it from turning. Help.
Zak
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 11:24:09 EDT
From: joebril@xxxxxxx
Subject: Chrysler news from California
300 folks
I just got home from the California Mille Miglia, Martin Swig's 1000 mile
rally through No. California. . Chrysler sponsored it. A few old time and
many new Chrysler people were there. They showcased a red 55 C300 (I think
it
was Larry Jett's former car) and a 57 300D with the new Crossfire and a
sport utility vehicle.
The new EVP marketing of Chrysler (Tom Marinelli ?sp) actually drove the
red
C300 day one...not since Bob Lutz left Chrysler have we had this kind of
exec
participation.
The CrossFire has a Mercedes E320 engine they rate at 215HP; wide ratio 6
speed manual and opt 5 sp auto... Very light car, about 3200 lb, moves to
100
MPH pretty quickly.
However, I mentioned to the Chrysler team that Mercedes has an EPA
approved
version of this engine with an AMG supercharger @ 350HP (I have driven the
featherweight Benz SLK with this motor and its like a true little "hot
rod"). My calculations would estimate 0-60 mid-5 seconds if geared well,
and
MAYBE 13.9 in the 1/4 mile IF they'd offer this combo. D_C likely
fear..would that eat into Mercedes sales?
"Price it high, and cry all the way to the bank!"
No promises or guidance but (wink smile) they are "working on" addditional
high performance Chrysler badged cars. I had one comment that there is
some
fear that the Chrysler dealer network can manage customers with
performance
cars in 2003 (Dodge Viper stories?)
The Chrysler execs on hand were proud as can be that they worked the HEMI
back into a passenger car, first maneuvering it through US rules into a
truck. Regarding looks, didn't want to say "the baby is ugly"...too late
to
change..., just congratulations. Once its on the street next generations
can
be developed.
There has been lots of discussion about THE LETTER...whether to seek a
"retro" restart vs "N". I'm sure that all kinds of high powered behavioral
psychologist marketing experts have been paid to offer their advice. I
wish
it was N...but that might not sell as many cars...Yet the average buyer
might
not have been born in 1955-57.
Ferrari was mentioned in a recent e-mail as a company that wouldn't
relabel
in a confusing way. Non e vero. In the mid 80's when performance was going
down hill, they badged a 3500 lb car the "testarosa". Painted the cam
covers
red and tried to leverage the 1957 heritage of the 1800 lb V12 Scaglietti
bodied Testarosa. Purists had a negative reaction. But Ferrari sold a
remarkable number of them...7177 in total, and they still resell for
$55-70K,
despite better performing new cars available at the high end of that price
range (not Ferrari badged).
The good news is that the Chrysler brand has a top notch marketing/brand
manager with an objective to build the Chrysler brand around PERFORMANCE
and
luxury automobiles....we wont have another Plymouth episode w/ "Chrysler".
Chrysler 300 members would have been happy to see all the promotional
displays with NASCAR pictures from the 50s, the HEMI history, the letter
cars, etc etc. Beats the 2001 cutback days.
Best regards,
Joe Brilando
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 03 May 2003 08:29:12 -0700
From: Rinda Van Lennep <ednavan9@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300K converiable question
Thanks to all of you that helped on the 300K convertible top. Now
another question. I have two pieces of rubber I bought from Gary Goer
that are labeled convertible drain. Where in the devil do these things
go? Top shop does not know. They are flat and have an edge on one side
with an angle , bend, at one end. Not much to go on sorry!
Thanks for any help one can give as to where these things go.
Thanks
Van
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sat, 03 May 2003 10:08:12 -0700
From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 57C tie rod ends
You could try prying up on the tie rod with a long pry bar to jam it in
the
taper as you torque things. A touch of valve grinding compound on the
taper
might help give enough friction hold things from turning.
Mike
At 08:18 AM 5/3/2003 -0700, David Zakarian wrote:
>Just got the C back from the body shop(after being rear ended in
December)
>and was going through withdrawals, so I crawled under it and decided to
>check the torque on everything I could reach. When I got to the tie rod
>ends, I put the wrench on the nut (from the stud coming up through the
>steer knuckle) and turned. The whole stud turns making it impossible to
>torque the nut to 40 Lbs. Is that stud supposed to turn? Any
suggestions
>on how to get the nut torqued and hold the stud from turning. Something
>is wrong, I just can not put my finger on it. The taper doesn't seem to
be
>grabbing the stud and keeping it from turning. Help.
>
>Zak
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 14:29:47 EDT
From: News4ge@xxxxxxx
Subject: Another K Question
Hi, again,
Thank you all for the help with the Roman Red paint. Next week, I'll
talk
to the Dupont people and see if they can work with these numbers.
Another question: on my K, most of the metal visible through the grille
is
painted a flat black over the red. Makes sense, and I always thought it
to
be correct, but some K's I took pictures of at club meets don't have this.
Which is right?
Thanks,
George Clineman
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sat, 03 May 2003 17:54:14 -0400
From: William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 57C tie rod ends
Hi,
I believe the first thing to do is to try and get the nut completely off
to
make sure the threads are not messed up. Rattling around like that could
have flattened some threads that can be dressed with a thread file or a
die. Bad threads will make the nut harder to tighten and also affect the
ultimate torque. I have also used valve grinding compound and a pry bar
to
help hold the taper, but what has worked good for me in the past has been
an impact wrench. It usually zaps the nut home before the taper can spin
very far. Then you can tighten it by hand to set the taper, unloosen it
and then torque the nut home, finishing with the cotter key.
Bill Huff
At 5/3/03 -0700 08:18 AM, you wrote:
>Just got the C back from the body shop(after being rear ended in
December)
>and was going through withdrawals, so I crawled under it and decided to
>check the torque on everything I could reach. When I got to the tie rod
>ends, I put the wrench on the nut (from the stud coming up through the
>steer knuckle) and turned. The whole stud turns making it impossible to
>torque the nut to 40 Lbs. Is that stud supposed to turn? Any
suggestions
>on how to get the nut torqued and hold the stud from turning. Something
>is wrong, I just can not put my finger on it. The taper doesn't seem to
be
>grabbing the stud and keeping it from turning. Help.
>
>Zak
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sat, 03 May 2003 17:21:55 -0500
From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 57C tie rod ends
Hi All;
The valve grinding compound should work. If it dosen't, I have used a
center
pounch to dimple,(raising an edge around the dimple), to make the taper
rough. Put it up in the hole tight and give it a smack to set it. then the
impact wrench to spin it down fast and your about done. Bck it off an set
the torque. You might want to check it later with the torque wrench, but
I've never had one loosen.
Ray Jones
p.s.: Don't forget to make reservations and to register for the Spring
meet.
You'll miss another great one
> From: William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Sat, 03 May 2003 17:54:14 -0400
> To: David Zakarian <arshog@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Cc: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 57C tie rod ends
>
> Hi,
>
> I believe the first thing to do is to try and get the nut completely off
to
> make sure the threads are not messed up. Rattling around like that
could
> have flattened some threads that can be dressed with a thread file or a
> die. Bad threads will make the nut harder to tighten and also affect
the
> ultimate torque. I have also used valve grinding compound and a pry bar
to
> help hold the taper, but what has worked good for me in the past has
been
> an impact wrench. It usually zaps the nut home before the taper can
spin
> very far. Then you can tighten it by hand to set the taper, unloosen it
> and then torque the nut home, finishing with the cotter key.
>
> Bill Huff
>
>
> At 5/3/03 -0700 08:18 AM, you wrote:
>> Just got the C back from the body shop(after being rear ended in
December)
>> and was going through withdrawals, so I crawled under it and decided to
>> check the torque on everything I could reach. When I got to the tie
rod
>> ends, I put the wrench on the nut (from the stud coming up through the
>> steer knuckle) and turned. The whole stud turns making it impossible
to
>> torque the nut to 40 Lbs. Is that stud supposed to turn? Any
suggestions
>> on how to get the nut torqued and hold the stud from turning.
Something
>> is wrong, I just can not put my finger on it. The taper doesn't seem to
be
>> grabbing the stud and keeping it from turning. Help.
>>
>> Zak
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>> Yahoo! Groups
>>
Sponsor<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=249982.3179269.4495679.1261774/D=egroupweb/S
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>> 556&lineid=3179269&prop=egroupweb&pos=HM>
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>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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>
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> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
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>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 18:29:01 -0600
From: john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: 57 generator needed in place of ?
Hello list.
I think I figured out why my a/c-generator belts don't allow me to get the
set screw in the right posision for tensioning.
If you look at my generator straight-on, the mounting bolts being at 6
o'clock on a dial face, the 'ear' for the set screw is at about 2 o'clock.
>From pictures I've looked at in various books/manuals, it appears that I
have a later generator, like maybe for 59 or 60, and that a 57/58 unit
should have the 'ear' at about 10 o'clock instead. No wonder the bracket
had a 'mickey mouse' extra piece of metal to reach the ear.
Just looking for confirmation as I can't make out the numbers on the
painted-over data plate on my generator. The good news is it works great,
and charges well, just doesn't look right.
john
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