[Chrysler300] Digest Number 642
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[Chrysler300] Digest Number 642



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There are 7 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Re: 300H Fuel problem - answer
           From: Robert Merritt <okbobwynmer@xxxxxxxxx>
      2. Re: 300H Fuel problem - answer
           From: GERALD OLSON <olson77@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      3. Re: Flanged bushing burnishing tool
           From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      4. Flanged bushing retention
           From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      5. 1956 Lower rear quarter patch panels
           From: cotejohnr@xxxxxxx
      6. Trunk panel replacement
           From: Dan Dunkleberg <Signboy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      7. Re: Flanged bushing retention
           From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 1
   Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 08:46:20 -0700 (PDT)
   From: Robert Merritt <okbobwynmer@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300H Fuel problem - answer

Bill,
 The downside to not using the burnishing tool is that
as it is being retracted, as well as burnishing, it
also slightly expands the bushing to make it fit the
block. Without burnishing, the bushing could be
tighter on the shaft and too loose in the block,
letting it turn and wear the block. 
It may be a while before I can even try to find my
burnishing tool. I am a wheat farmer and harvest
starts in a few days and I don't have my combine
ready, so my car hobby will be on the back burner till
after harvest. Check with me in about a month if you
haven't found one by then.
--- William Huff <wbh@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Thanks Bob,
> 
> I would surely be interested in buying or renting
> one.  Please let me know 
> what you find.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bill
> 
> 29 May 2003 18:55:52 -0700 (PDT)
> Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 18:55:52 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Robert Merritt <okbobwynmer@xxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300H Fuel problem -
> answer
> 
> To: William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Cc: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> 
> 
> Bill,
> Over the years I have bought the specialty tools
> from
> several dealerships that had gone out of business.Of
> course a lot of the popular tools were missing but
> it
> is amazing how many of the kits received in the
> later
> years just before they went out hadn't even been
> opened.
> I haven't built an engine recently so I don't know
> for
> sure where it is but will look thru my building and
> see if I have duplicates. If I can find it I may be
> able to duplicate it with my lathe, or at least
> furnish exact measurements so other club members
> could
> make their own.
> Okie Bob
> --- William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>  > Bob,
>  >
>  > I have done this also, but I never burnished the
>  > bearing since I don't have
>  > a burnishing tool. What did you use to burnish
> the
>  > bearing, and is there
>  > any down side to not doing the burnishing?
>  >
>  > Bill Huff
>  >
>  >
>  >
>  > I pull the
>  > distributor, and check for excessive side play in
>  > the
>  > shaft and pull it out and see if the shaft shows
>  > wear
>  > just below the gear and if so, replace the shaft
> at
>  > the same time the bushing is replaced and
> burnished.
>  >
>  >
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to 
> Outlook(TM).http://calendar.yahoo.com
> 


__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 2
   Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 12:12:36 -0400
   From: GERALD OLSON <olson77@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 300H Fuel problem - answer

Miller Special Tools -- 800-801-5420---tool #3053 is $71 plus shipping 
and its on back order till 1st week of July. Ain't it fun trying to do 
an engine right? regards, Jerry



----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Merritt <okbobwynmer@xxxxxxxxx>
Date: Friday, May 30, 2003 11:46 am
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300H Fuel problem - answer

> Bill,
> The downside to not using the burnishing tool is that
> as it is being retracted, as well as burnishing, it
> also slightly expands the bushing to make it fit the
> block. Without burnishing, the bushing could be
> tighter on the shaft and too loose in the block,
> letting it turn and wear the block. 
> It may be a while before I can even try to find my
> burnishing tool. I am a wheat farmer and harvest
> starts in a few days and I don't have my combine
> ready, so my car hobby will be on the back burner till
> after harvest. Check with me in about a month if you
> haven't found one by then.
> --- William Huff <wbh@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> > Thanks Bob,
> > 
> > I would surely be interested in buying or renting
> > one.  Please let me know 
> > what you find.
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > Bill
> > 
> > 29 May 2003 18:55:52 -0700 (PDT)
> > Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 18:55:52 -0700 (PDT)
> > From: Robert Merritt <okbobwynmer@xxxxxxxxx>
> > Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300H Fuel problem -
> > answer
> > 
> > To: William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>
> > Cc: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > 
> > 
> > Bill,
> > Over the years I have bought the specialty tools
> > from
> > several dealerships that had gone out of business.Of
> > course a lot of the popular tools were missing but
> > it
> > is amazing how many of the kits received in the
> > later
> > years just before they went out hadn't even been
> > opened.
> > I haven't built an engine recently so I don't know
> > for
> > sure where it is but will look thru my building and
> > see if I have duplicates. If I can find it I may be
> > able to duplicate it with my lathe, or at least
> > furnish exact measurements so other club members
> > could
> > make their own.
> > Okie Bob
> > --- William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> >  > Bob,
> >  >
> >  > I have done this also, but I never burnished the
> >  > bearing since I don't have
> >  > a burnishing tool. What did you use to burnish
> > the
> >  > bearing, and is there
> >  > any down side to not doing the burnishing?
> >  >
> >  > Bill Huff
> >  >
> >  >
> >  >
> >  > I pull the
> >  > distributor, and check for excessive side play in
> >  > the
> >  > shaft and pull it out and see if the shaft shows
> >  > wear
> >  > just below the gear and if so, replace the shaft
> > at
> >  > the same time the bushing is replaced and
> > burnished.
> >  >
> >  >
> > 
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to 
> > Outlook(TM).http://calendar.yahoo.com
> > 
> 
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
> http://calendar.yahoo.com
> 
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------
> -~-->
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> 
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> 
> For list server instructions, go to 
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm 
> 
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 3
   Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 13:39:23 -0500
   From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Flanged bushing burnishing tool

The actual (omly) purpose of the burnishing is to lock the bushing into
the
block. Setting the clearance is secondary.
Ray Jones 

> From: William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 00:57:28 -0500
> To: wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Cc: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [Chrysler300] Flanged bushing burnishing tool
> 
> Thanks for the info Warren,
> 
> There aren't any on EBay right now, I wrote to Miller for a quote.  I
> hesitate to confess that I have put a couple of engines together without
> the tool, simply using the old oil pump drive to tap the new bushing
into
> place.  There seemed to be adequate clearance to the new drive shaft.
What
> is the down side of not doing the burnishing, so long as the shaft to
> bushing clearance is sufficient?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bill
> 
> 
> Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 21:08:41 -0700
> From: Warren R Anderson <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Chrysler300] Flanged bushing burnishing tool
> 
> 
> The  installer tool is always needed.
> 
> Bushing driver tool comes with piloted plate and drawing nut used to
pull
> burnishing end through installed bushing. Burnishing end measures 0.4875
in
> (which is two rounded lands). The two old 413 oil pump drive shafts I
have
> measure 0.485 in. Note: When Mr Merritt finds his burnisher we can
> thendebate the fourth decimal place above.
> 
> We want to remember about $25 dollar range for either tool probably
about 4
> yrs ago.
> 
> E-bay? We have netted some killer tool deals from that source - - - -.
Hint.
> 
> HTH
> 
> Warren Anderson
> Sedona,AZ
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> 
> For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> 
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> 
> 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> 
> 
> 



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 4
   Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 13:12:08 -0700
   From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Flanged bushing retention




>The actual (omly) purpose of the burnishing is to lock the bushing into
the
>block. Setting the clearance is secondary.
>Ray Jones


Then, retention being the primary objective and that the shaft fits the
hole, for those without the special tool, why not super clean the block
and
bushing and set the bushing in LocTite (Permatex) sleeve retainer?
Question
only.

Warren Anderson
Sedona,AZ



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 5
   Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 20:36:47 EDT
   From: cotejohnr@xxxxxxx
Subject: 1956 Lower rear quarter patch panels

 Hi all you '56 aficionados,
Does anyone know if there is a source for a patch panel for the lower rear

quarters on a '56 ?  Specifically the area in front of the rear wheel
(left) 
between the door and wheel well but a complete lower would be OK.   Of
course if 
you have an NOS panel in your stock, that would be great!!!  (Super
great!)
Thank you,
John


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 6
   Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 15:47:38 -0700
   From: Dan Dunkleberg <Signboy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Trunk panel replacement

Hi all,

Need to start looking for a good trunk replacement panel for my 61. It 
seems like every 61 i come across has a rusty trunk (along with the 
gutter!). Wanted to know everyones thoughts on what is the best 
alternative?  I remember someone saying that a 63 trunk panel works but 
needs some massaging! Does anyone know the difference and what need to 
be done to make it work? I have never seen one in person.

Any creative ideas or direction would be appreciated.

300'ly

Dan D.



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 7
   Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 00:11:30 -0500
   From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Flanged bushing retention

Hi Warren;
Here's a reply George Riehl sent to me, which I'll share with all:

 Fine to put my comments on the server. Can't really see spending $75.00
for
a tool used once by the average person.

Having watched the continuing discussion about the bushing, this is what I
have to say....in 45 some years I have never reamed the bushing. Just
knock
the old one out, install the new bronze one with a peice of pipe. Never
had
one turn in the block nor was ever too tight on the dist. drive shaft.
Have
just finished a 383 and a 318 that way. Plus umteen other engines. The
local
machine shop here also has never reamed that bushing on any engine they
rebuild or used a "special" tool to install it. They use exactly the same
peice of pipe that I do. Another shop puts a large washer on a 2" long
bolt
of the proper shaft size, puts the bolt assembly into the bushing and
drives
the bushing in with a long punch. Works every time.

 By the way, never use the aluminum bushing, they are junk,  just like the
pot metal dist., generally available from the Chrysler dealer.
   George

Hope this helps, doing it "by the book" is usually the desired way, but us
old "flatraters" know that the practical ways work fine.
Ray

> From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 13:12:08 -0700
> To: "William Huff" <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>, "Ray Jones"
<hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Cc: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Chrysler300] Flanged bushing retention
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> The actual (omly) purpose of the burnishing is to lock the bushing into
the
>> block. Setting the clearance is secondary.
>> Ray Jones
> 
> 
> Then, retention being the primary objective and that the shaft fits the
> hole, for those without the special tool, why not super clean the block
and
> bushing and set the bushing in LocTite (Permatex) sleeve retainer?
Question
> only.
> 
> Warren Anderson
> Sedona,AZ
> 
> 
> 
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> 
> For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
> 
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> 
> 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> 
> 
> 



________________________________________________________________________
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