Re: [Chrysler300] Flanged bushing retention

[Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxx>]

Hi Warren;
Here's a reply George Riehl sent to me, which I'll share with all:

Fine to put my comments on the server. Can't really see spending $75.00 for
a tool used once by the average person.

Having watched the continuing discussion about the bushing, this is what I
have to say....in 45 some years I have never reamed the bushing. Just knock
the old one out, install the new bronze one with a peice of pipe. Never had
one turn in the block nor was ever too tight on the dist. drive shaft. Have
just finished a 383 and a 318 that way. Plus umteen other engines. The local
machine shop here also has never reamed that bushing on any engine they
rebuild or used a "special" tool to install it. They use exactly the same
peice of pipe that I do. Another shop puts a large washer on a 2" long bolt
of the proper shaft size, puts the bolt assembly into the bushing and drives
the bushing in with a long punch. Works every time.

By the way, never use the aluminum bushing, they are junk, just like the
pot metal dist., generally available from the Chrysler dealer.
George

Hope this helps, doing it "by the book" is usually the desired way, but us
old "flatraters" know that the practical ways work fine.
Ray

> From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxx>
> Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 13:12:08 -0700
> To: "William Huff" <whuff@xxxx>, "Ray Jones" <hurst300@xxxx>
> Cc: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Chrysler300] Flanged bushing retention
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> The actual (omly) purpose of the burnishing is to lock the bushing into the
>> block. Setting the clearance is secondary.
>> Ray Jones
> 
> 
> Then, retention being the primary objective and that the shaft fits the
> hole, for those without the special tool, why not super clean the block and
> bushing and set the bushing in LocTite (Permatex) sleeve retainer? Question
> only.
> 
> Warren Anderson
> Sedona,AZ
> 
> 
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