more on modifications

[John Hertog <crossram@xxxx>]

Gang,

OK, I can't help myself - gotta butt in ! I don't own a Porsche or a
Beemer, and nothing built after 1986 or so..
I did rent a new Volvo something or other recently, and of course I have
driven newer cars of all type, here and there . They just don't turn me on
like my 300F/G's do! But they sure do stop "better" . As in more evenly,
smoothly, straight, time and time again.

My 300L was converted to discs as soon as I bought it. It is a pleasure to
drive, and to STOP. Again and again and again and again at nauseam. And even
with another 4000 lb. Chrysler sitting on the car trailer being towed behind
the 300L. My other 300's, at this time two 300G's, have the original
braking systems, and, well, they sure detract from the driving pleasure I
experience anytime I take one of those cars out. The brakes, and only the
brakes, make these cars feel old and outdated.

It is quite possible to upgrade the handling and steering of a 300 in a
gentle, non-butchering kind of way. The formula is simple: install KYB
shocks front and back, and have Eaton Spring make you a set of new rear
springs, one step heavier duty than stock. Have the steering box rebuilt to
Firm-Feel spec, and install a new steering shaft insulator bushing,
available from Gary Goers. Make sure ALL of your front end components are in
good shape - especially bushings. Then, get some good tires ( I like
Goodyear Eagle GT+4's, P235/75R15, V rated to about 150 mph. ). If you like
to show your car, then just get a second set of rims and switch back and
forth between your "show, bias ply, correct WWWidth tires" and your
"driving, safe radial" tires. Have your car aligned to Mike Laiserin specs -
max caster while still being able to retain camber within spec. You'll now
have a 300 that goes round corners and over bumps and down the road
oh-so-nice !

Likewise it is possible to "upgrade" the original 413 to run on today's
lousy gas - as was pointed out earlier on this listserver, lower the
compression ratio a bit, back off the timing a hair, and, PLEASE, leave
those 2903's and 3505's carbs alone ! They're just fine. If you crave
performance, a little cylinder head porting will bring you back to the
original HP rating. If you crave MORE performance, please don't butcher up
a 300 letter car. Get a 300 sport, Saratoga, etc... and install your fuelie
/ superchargers/ turbochargers on those cars instead. Build a 300 look-alike
like Dean Smith's '61 300R and have a lot of fun with it.

So - all this leads us back to - brakes. Most of us will be content to leave
the original system alone. It's certainly useable. It's safe, too, as long
as ALL your brake lines have been replaced recently and all wheel cylinders
and brake hoses renewed. Anyone out there driving his or her 300 with ANY
original brake line ( now 35 to 45 years old) or brake hose - you've got a
death wish. Replace ALL your steel brake lines - including the front-to-back
one !

Good point about the original drums, especially for 300's up to 1962. I
don't know where to get new ones except for junkyards. Quite a few 300's
that have come thru here in the past couple years have had little or no meat
left on the drums - they're just plain worn down to the cord and are past
the safe/usable stage. The only source of good brake drums that I know of
is salvage yards and / or parts cars. If anyone knows any different,
please - LET ME KNOW ! I need drums for 300F and 300G 's

Both my 300G's have good drums, new shoes, new lines, new wheel cylinders,
hardware and return springs. Shoes have been contour-ground to the drums.
Much care has been taken in bleeding / adjusting/ etc. Both cars feel, well,
inadequate and unsatisfactory in the braking departement.

So - the one issue at hand is: to convert to discs, or not to convert...
it's a personal decision, and there's no right and wrong - you should do to
your car what you want to do to your car. Most people I know won't need disc
brake conversions. They don't drive their 300's far enough, fast enough, or
hard enough. Those that do use their cars on a regular basis, to travel
great distances, and at a high rate of speed whenever possible, might be
tempted to do so. If that is the case, then consider doing it in an
unobtrusive and gentle manner - using the original spindles and a bracket to
mount a caliper attached to said spindles. Such a modification is not
permanent and can be easily reversed, perhaps by the next owner of your 300.
Same story with single versus dual master cylinder setup.

Dan Reitz has performed such mods to his 300F, and it's an impressive
difference over the stock setup. And, the car is NOT butchered or altered -
it could probably be returned to 100% stock configuration in a couple-three
hours. Way to go.

Please - live and let live. Keeping your 300 original is always a safer bet.
It will increase its resale value and you'll be able to say " it's all
original" to all that may ask. If you drive long and hard on today's
highways, in traffic, putting on a few thousand miles each year, it would
seem like common sense to upgrade to disc brakes - it might just save your
life, and certainly will help to preserve your 300, from getting into a bad
accident.

If you must modify, please do so in a gentle, unobtrusive and reversible
manner. These are rare, very special collector cars and should be treated
with the respect they deserve.

John