Re: [Chrysler300] more on modifications

["baker.6pack" <Baker.6pack@xxxx>]

Hi John,

Forgive me, but I just got to ask. How well did that disc brake conversion
on your sport 300 keep you from getting in a bad accident?
Just teasing you.

K. Baker
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 5:49 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] more on modifications


> Gang,
>
> OK, I can't help myself - gotta butt in ! I don't own a Porsche or a
> Beemer, and nothing built after 1986 or so..
> I did rent a new Volvo something or other recently, and of course I have
> driven newer cars of all type, here and there . They just don't turn me on
> like my 300F/G's do! But they sure do stop "better" . As in more evenly,
> smoothly, straight, time and time again.
>
> My 300L was converted to discs as soon as I bought it. It is a pleasure to
> drive, and to STOP. Again and again and again and again at nauseam. And
even
> with another 4000 lb. Chrysler sitting on the car trailer being towed
behind
> the 300L. My other 300's, at this time two 300G's, have the original
> braking systems, and, well, they sure detract from the driving pleasure I
> experience anytime I take one of those cars out. The brakes, and only the
> brakes, make these cars feel old and outdated.
>
> It is quite possible to upgrade the handling and steering of a 300 in a
> gentle, non-butchering kind of way. The formula is simple: install KYB
> shocks front and back, and have Eaton Spring make you a set of new rear
> springs, one step heavier duty than stock. Have the steering box rebuilt
to
> Firm-Feel spec, and install a new steering shaft insulator bushing,
> available from Gary Goers. Make sure ALL of your front end components are
in
> good shape - especially bushings. Then, get some good tires ( I like
> Goodyear Eagle GT+4's, P235/75R15, V rated to about 150 mph. ). If you
like
> to show your car, then just get a second set of rims and switch back and
> forth between your "show, bias ply, correct WWWidth tires" and your
> "driving, safe radial" tires. Have your car aligned to Mike Laiserin
specs -
> max caster while still being able to retain camber within spec. You'll now
> have a 300 that goes round corners and over bumps and down the road
> oh-so-nice !
>
> Likewise it is possible to "upgrade" the original 413 to run on today's
> lousy gas - as was pointed out earlier on this listserver, lower the
> compression ratio a bit, back off the timing a hair, and, PLEASE, leave
> those 2903's and 3505's carbs alone ! They're just fine. If you crave
> performance, a little cylinder head porting will bring you back to the
> original HP rating. If you crave MORE performance, please don't butcher
up
> a 300 letter car. Get a 300 sport, Saratoga, etc... and install your
fuelie
> / superchargers/ turbochargers on those cars instead. Build a 300
look-alike
> like Dean Smith's '61 300R and have a lot of fun with it.
>
> So - all this leads us back to - brakes. Most of us will be content to
leave
> the original system alone. It's certainly useable. It's safe, too, as long
> as ALL your brake lines have been replaced recently and all wheel
cylinders
> and brake hoses renewed. Anyone out there driving his or her 300 with ANY
> original brake line ( now 35 to 45 years old) or brake hose - you've got a
> death wish. Replace ALL your steel brake lines - including the
front-to-back
> one !
>
> Good point about the original drums, especially for 300's up to 1962. I
> don't know where to get new ones except for junkyards. Quite a few 300's
> that have come thru here in the past couple years have had little or no
meat
> left on the drums - they're just plain worn down to the cord and are past
> the safe/usable stage. The only source of good brake drums that I know of
> is salvage yards and / or parts cars. If anyone knows any different,
> please - LET ME KNOW ! I need drums for 300F and 300G 's
>
> Both my 300G's have good drums, new shoes, new lines, new wheel cylinders,
> hardware and return springs. Shoes have been contour-ground to the drums.
> Much care has been taken in bleeding / adjusting/ etc. Both cars feel,
well,
> inadequate and unsatisfactory in the braking departement.
>
> So - the one issue at hand is: to convert to discs, or not to convert...
> it's a personal decision, and there's no right and wrong - you should do
to
> your car what you want to do to your car. Most people I know won't need
disc
> brake conversions. They don't drive their 300's far enough, fast enough,
or
> hard enough. Those that do use their cars on a regular basis, to travel
> great distances, and at a high rate of speed whenever possible, might be
> tempted to do so. If that is the case, then consider doing it in an
> unobtrusive and gentle manner - using the original spindles and a bracket
to
> mount a caliper attached to said spindles. Such a modification is not
> permanent and can be easily reversed, perhaps by the next owner of your
300.
> Same story with single versus dual master cylinder setup.
>
> Dan Reitz has performed such mods to his 300F, and it's an impressive
> difference over the stock setup. And, the car is NOT butchered or
altered -
> it could probably be returned to 100% stock configuration in a
couple-three
> hours. Way to go.
>
> Please - live and let live. Keeping your 300 original is always a safer
bet.
> It will increase its resale value and you'll be able to say " it's all
> original" to all that may ask. If you drive long and hard on today's
> highways, in traffic, putting on a few thousand miles each year, it would
> seem like common sense to upgrade to disc brakes - it might just save your
> life, and certainly will help to preserve your 300, from getting into a
bad
> accident.
>
> If you must modify, please do so in a gentle, unobtrusive and reversible
> manner. These are rare, very special collector cars and should be treated
> with the respect they deserve.
>
> John
>
>
>
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