RE: [Chrysler300] More Oil Stuff...
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RE: [Chrysler300] More Oil Stuff...



My Chevy Venture has has 5W30 Mobil 1 since new &
changed every 5000 miles (company-paid maintenance),
now has 149,000 miles, no oil consumption. It also
has modern seals & gaskets.

Years ago, I used Mobil 1 in a 1962 Morgan Plus 4 with
its factory installed Triumph TR-3 four cylinder. It
had previously serviced only with petroleum oil,
100,000+ miles. The minor oil weeping I was
accustomed to grew to several driveway-staining drips.
The synthetic oil found its way past the cork valve
cover & oil pan gaskets, the front T/C seal & rear
main seal. Though each of these had been replaced 4-5
years earlier, none was entirely effective in holding
in the Mobil 1. I switched back to petroleum-based
oil, and the dripping returned to the previous few
weeps.

I have not recently used synthetics in the Chryslers,
but would hesitate doing so for the leakage/staining
reason, but have no doubt the lubricating properties
are superior.

John Spiers

--- Jeff Gretz <gretz@xxxx> wrote:
> What about synthetic oils? Does anyone have
> experience using Mobil 1 or
> others?
> 
> Jeff
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Andy Mikonis [mailto:r41hp@xxxx]
> Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2002 8:05 AM
> To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] More Oil Stuff...
> 
> 
> 
> I was always taught to go with the single grade oil,
> too. I spent my formative car-owning years in
> Florida
> and this was thought to be best in that hot climate.
> 
> But I read something interesting:
> 
> Patrick Bedard, in the November 1999 Car and Driver
> quotes an Ed Kollin of Lubrication Sciences; he
> makes
> custom blended oils, and Bedard asks him about the
> best oil for an occasionally driven 'keeper car.'
> 
> He says oil has gradually evolved; the amount of the
> primary anti-wear additive zinc dialkyl
> dithiophosphate (ZDDP) has been reduced by 25%
> because
> it is harful to catalysts. Also, he says gas
> additives MTBE and ethanol dilute oil by 5 to 10%
> and
> are very corrosive to the materials used in older
> engines. He suggests corrosion is the worst enemy
> for
> our cars - more so than wear at startup.
> 
> His "off-the-shelf" solution: "C" grade 15W-40 oil
> for
> diesel engines. Why?
> 1. The "oil part" is the same, and 15W-40 is
> thicker.
> 2. 80% more ZDDP.
> 2. 30-50% more corrosion inhibitors and detergents:
> these oils are designed to neutralize the sulfuric
> acid produced by diesel fuel - this takes care of
> the
> corrsion problem. He also says the higher detergents
> will free up sticky rings "quickly."
> 
> He cautions "nitrogen compounds in the high dose of
> dispersant may cause some seals to leak." Also, if a
> non-detergent oil was used before, the detergents
> will
> knock "chunks of sludge loose", possibly clogging
> lifters.
> 
> Interesting stuff. I don't know anything about it. 
> Haven't tried it yet. Thought about it. Comments?
> 
> Andy
> 
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