[Chrysler300] '60-'62 A/C airbox
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[Chrysler300] '60-'62 A/C airbox




Hello & happy mid-week. Now that Mid GA's finally ice-less, I begin huntin'
a firewall-mounted, underhood airbox for an A/C car.   I'm pretty sure
1960-1962 Chrysler (exc. Imperial) are the same.  Hoping to aircondition the
'61 Chrysler now that we're above 40 degrees outside.

Anybody have a useable setup collecting dust?  Ugly & cracked would be fine.
Just hoping to find a complete unit; housing the heater and cooling cores.


Many thanks

ps.  Anybody going to the Moultrie swapmeet this weekend?




-----Original Message-----
From: Marshall R Larson [mailto:yelof@xxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2005 12:56 PM
To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Turn Signal Switch



I suspect that the switch has distorted, due to age, such that the
actuator is binding in it's bore.  I have found that the springs from
retractable ball point pens can be substituted for many light duty
cylindrical spring applications.  You will note that these springs are
not all the same.  Some pens have soft springs and others have strong
springs.  By comparing springs from several pens a suitable match may be
found.  I salvage the springs before discarding a dry pen.
I've not yet been into one of these switches so I don,t know if this is
the type of spring used in them.  Maybe helpful information anyway.

Minnesota Marshall
Red G,  27 & 28 Dodge Brothers

 
On Mon, 31 Jan 2005 16:55:08 -0800 (PST) Brandt Jimerson
<brandt300g@xxxxxxxxx> writes:
> 
> Hello everybody!!  Yep, sure enough, my G turn signal cancel switch 
> isn't working either. I took it apart, cleaned the contacts and 
> examined the 'microscopic' spring which may but NOT necessarily be 
> the culprit for cancelling failure.  Put it this way, the small 
> rubber(like) arm (when switch is out), when pushed in, STAYS in. Is 
> this normal!? It seems that spring should push arm back out (when 
> pushed in), and in the installed case, remain rigidly outward after 
> brushing by any of the 4 (and I don't know what the heck they're 
> called) 'obstacles'  responsible for arm to go far enough to make 
> contact. It would work for a while but then those 'obstacles' would 
> (I'm thinking),  push rubber arm in and bad spring can't make arm go 
> back out  to where it should be for proper activation (if you can 
> follow what I just said). PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS IS MY THEORY ONLY 
> and may not be what is necessarily happening!! Please by all means, 
> suggestions a plus!  Sincerely and 300ly, Brandt H. Jimerson, 
>  300G. 



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