Re: [Chrysler300] Carburetion Question!!! - reply

[Kraus300@xxxxxxxxxxx]

I think its all about risk management. I drive my C a lot and under some pretty tough conditions. This car would do the dry carb thing after a few days and would crank endlessly. It would also vapor lock and either stall in traffic and/or refuse to start after being shut down when hot. Dumping fuel down the carb 15-20 times a year is eventually going to be trouble. Sometimes my aim was off. There were backfires. Sometimes it would act up on the road or at meets. Carrying extra fuel in the trunk for this is not so smart. Twice I didn't get the hood latched right after priming and the hood popped open on the road. 

I installed an electric pump two years ago. This small pump has been a good compromise solution but...
It has to be  the low pressure type. I think mine does 3-4 pounds of pressure. More is not better. 
It needs to be installed in a protected area, not in the engine compartment. My pump says no temps over 140 degrees.
It needs to be installed on a properly fused wire.
You need to think before you use it. I'm lucky that the C has a factory rear defroster. The pump is wired to come on with the defroster's toggle switch. The discipline is that the key is turned on, defroster on, count to 10 and turn it off. The noise of the defroster is the reminder that the pump is on.  
For any other application I like the thought of a momentary switch.

I agree that the restriction of the in line electric pump could aggravate a vapor lock condition in some cars. I've found that mine helps on hot restarts more than it hurts. 

The biggest concern is a failure of the stock fuel pump. My thought is that some internal failure in the stock pump could allow the electric pump to push fuel into the crankcase. Switching on that electric pump could be a big mistake. I carry a section of rubber fuel hose and clamps to bypass the stock pump if it fails.

Lets all be careful out there. 

Jim Krausmann
Detroit

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Warren, et al . 
> 
> The psi output of the auxiliary pump is the same as that of the stock pump - 
> about 5 psi if memory serves me right. There is no more reason for it to 
> overpower the needle and seat in the carbs than for the stock mechanical 
> pump to do so. I have used mine on a switched, ignition-on circuit, and 
> once it even got me home after the stock fuel pump failed while driving on a 
> trip. I have also inadvertently left it on at times and it has made no 
> difference at all in the car's performance, or caused any flooding of any 
> sort. This (and the flow-thru design) is why I like Mr. Lazenby's electric 
> pumps 
> 
> John Hertog 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Thomas Miller" 
> To: ; ; 
> ; 
> Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2005 8:11 PM 
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Carburetion Question!!! - reply 
> 
> 
> > Hi Warren, 
> > 
> > Would you still take issue with this setup if a momentary contact switch 
> > were used instead of a toggle? 
> > 
> > Just curious. 
> > 
> > Best Regards, 
> > 
> > Thomas F. Miller 
> > tfm@xxxxxxxxxxxx 
> > 
> >>>> "Warren Anderson" 9/20/2005 8:08 PM >>> 
> > The only 100% for sure "cure" for this symptom 
> >> is to install an auxiliary electric pump. Properly installed at the rear, 
> > by 
> >> the tank, this switch-controlled unit would push fuel all the way up to 
> > the 
> >> front when turned on, and fill up the bowls on the carbs with fuel. then 
> >> start the car, turn off the electric pump, and you're done. 
> >> 
> >> My 300G is equipped with such a critter. Even after weeks of sitting, 
> >> it's 
> >> always an easy start. It sure beats cranking and cranking and cranking 
> > and 
> >> cranking to get fuel up to the carbs using the factory mechanical pump. 
> > So 
> >> far it's been years since I have had to replace the starter, and I 
> >> believe 
> >> this is in great part because I don't have to use it a lot, to crank and 
> >> crank and crank... 
> >> 
> >> John Lazenby sells a small, easy to install "straight-through" unit that 
> >> will allow fuel to flow through it even when turned off. E-mail him at: 
> >> john@xxxxxxxxx 
> >> 
> >> John Hertog 
> >> Sag Harbor NY 
> > 
> > 
> > Dangerous set up to say the least. First, idle pump DOES cause some 
> > restriction that can be just enough to aggravate marginal vapor lock 
> > condition. 
> > 
> > Single switch under dash can be (and will be eventually) left on and pump 
> > will pump entire contents of fuel tank through needle/seat and at least 
> > cause a mess. This I have seen happen but have never seen what happens 
> > when 
> > switch is left on and carburetor floods over and a large fire starts. This 
> > can happen very easily and is why a safety system needs to be built into 
> > the 
> > on-off supply for the booster pump so that if the engine dies, the pump 
> > shuts off too. Good common sense approach to avoiding otherwise inevitable 
> > disaster. 
> > 
> > Back when, heavy duty trucks with carburetors had in-tank electric fuel 
> > pumps and primer buttons on the dash. Before the engine was running, 
> > primer 
> > button allowed driver to fill (big) float bowls and then, after engine was 
> > running, the pump was oil pressure triggered to run. Prime pump before 
> > start is definately not some new idea and is not a bad idea but needs more 
> > than simple switch to be safe. (IMO as well as alot of other engineers) 
> > 
> > Warren Anderson 
> > Sedona,AZ 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
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