Re: [Chrysler300] Cold start--Electric fuel pump

["hmpirish" <hmpirish@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi Rich and 300 Fans.  I'm sorry I missed your request/need for a 6 volt 
fuel pump!  They can be purchased new from:  Earle Brown, 229 Robinhood 
lane, McMurray, PA 15317   Tel 724-941-4567.    Earle is a real gentlemen 
and my 1941 V-12 starts perfectly with his pump installed.  Tell him I sent 
you!                                 All the Best 300ing! 
Phil Irish
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rich Barber" <c300@xxxxxxx>
To: "'Bob Jasinski'" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>; "'Ray Jones'" 
<hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: "'Chrysler 300 Broadcast'" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 2:20 AM
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Cold start--Electric fuel pump


> OK.  What everyone wants is one of the engineer's dreams--the 
> intermittent,
> latching switch.  The other dream is the non-slipping, non-locking 
> fastener.
>
>
> You can't have it both ways.
>
> If I can ever find a 6-Volt fuel pump for my '55, I'll connect an
> appropriately sized wire to the ST terminal of the starter switch and add 
> an
> inline fuse for the pump.  If the system needs more than a brief prime, I
> can put the dagger-on-the-dash out of neutral and turn the key to start to
> run the pump until the carbs are primed, then put the granny impaler in
> neutral for a nice, easy start.  It is not clear if there is a circuit
> breaker in the ST circuit.  To prepare for the day when I might need the
> fuel pump full time, I will add a second pigtail to the IGN terminal of 
> the
> switch with enough lead so that I could switch the inline fuse body from 
> the
> ST terminal source wire to the one from the IGN terminal.  The wiring
> diagram for my '55 shows only a 16 ga wire from the ST terminal to the
> starter relay, so connecting the pump to the starter relay end of that 
> wire
> might well overload the small wire from the switch.
>
> I think the accessories are de-energized when cranking, but I'm not sure.
> If so, I think the gas in the carbs would start the car and the electric
> pump would kick on when the key was back in the run position.  I can't 
> tell
> if the ST circuit has a built in circuit breaker or not so if the pump 
> does
> pop the circuit breaker, one would lose power to the coil and that would 
> be
> inconvenient!
>
> Another alternative is to use a toggle switch and add a big red pilot 
> light
> somewhere visible to the driver so as to heighten awareness when the pump 
> is
> on.
>
> Still looking for a source of an appropriate 6-Volt, positive ground
> electric fuel pump that will allow flow through when not running.
>
> Fire-by-wire guys will recognize this creative work as that of a 
> mechanical
> type.  But, I was able as a kid to get the little guy to come out of his
> house and wave his lantern when the Lionel train went by!
>
> C-300'ly,
> Rich Barber
> Brentwood, CA (got a good 3" rain today with high winds)
> 1955 Chrysler C-300
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
> Behalf Of Bob Jasinski
> Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 6:38 PM
> To: 'Ray Jones'
> Cc: 'Chrysler 300 Broadcast'
> Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Cold start--Electric fuel pump
>
> Ray and all,
>
> What started out as relatively simple is getting confusing because of
> different years and switch types.  The way I have my G elec fuel pump 
> wired
> is the way Ray  describes, a wire from the "on" terminal to the pushbutton
> then to the pump and then to ground to complete the circuit.  What Bruce 
> is
> doing is connecting the pump to the "start" output from the key switch,
> where it connects to the starter relay.  When the key switch is turned to
> "start", voltage is applied to the elec pump and it is then energized.  To
> keep the starter from turning over, he depresses the trans selector button
> to any position BUT Neutral while he is pumping up the fuel.  This way the
> neutral safety switch keeps the starter relay from closing because there 
> is
> no ground present.  Once the fuel is pumped up, press the Neutral button,
> turn the key, and it fires right up.
>
> Please note, this only will work on later cars that use the ignition key 
> to
> start the motor, NOT the Neutral pushbutton.  I'm not sure what years use
> the Neutral button for starting, but I think it is '55-'57, someone can
> correct me here.  As far as using both a pushbutton and a connection to 
> the
> starter relay, I don't recommend it because if you pushed the fuel pump
> switch button with the car in Neutral it would close the starter relay and
> turn over the engine at the same time, and if the engine is running, that
> would not be a good thing.  So, the point here is to use one or the other,
> but not both.  What Ray is describing is having both a toggle switch AND a
> separate pushbutton, yet another way to do it, but in my opinion 
> unnecessary
> because the only time you would need the toggle is if the mechanical pump
> fails. Sorry for all the confusion, but installing the electric fuel pump
> really is the answer to hard starting after the car sits for an extended
> period.  I just hope you all aren't tired of the subject and my postings!
>
> Bob J
>
>
>  _____
>
> From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
> Behalf Of Ray Jones
> Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 4:58 PM
> To: Bob Jasinski
> Cc: Chrysler 300 Broadcast
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Cold start--Electric fuel pump
>
>
>
>
> Sounds like y'all are picking up your power at the wrong place. You
> don't want to use the "Start" circuit at all. Use the "ON" side of the
> Ing. switch, and from there to both switches. From both switches to the
> pump. Actually, it only takes one wire on either leg. From the Ing.
> switch "ON" to the momentary button, with a jumper to the toggle
> switch. That supplies power to both. Out of the push button to the
> "OUT' side of the Toggle and then to the pump. This way it will only
> work with the ing. switch ON, and using either button or toggle will
> send current ONLY to the pump as the other switch is not used and
> leaves an open in the circuit. Turn your Ing. switch on, push the
> button until it stops "ticking" and then start. If the mechanical pump
> quits, flip the toggle, and use the Elec. Pump to get ya home. And when
> you turn off the Ing. switch, the pump's off even it you forget to
> switch the toggle off.
>
> Hope that's clear without a diagram.
> Ray
>
> On Jan 4, 2008, at 2:41 PM, Bob Jasinski wrote:
>
> Warren,
>
> I agree it could be a problem having a pump connection made both
> through the
> starter solenoid and a separate momentary switch, in that the momentary
> switch could energize energize the starter, IF the car was in neutral,
> otherwise the neutral safety switch would be open and not allow
> current flow
> to the starter relay. I think I'll just stick with one switch
> controlling
> the pump, either the starter solenoid or the separate pushbutton, but
> not
> both.
>
> Bob J
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
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