[Chrysler300] Re: G Charging Issues

["richard_e_osborne" <richard@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Warren and All,

Thank you for the responses. I think Warren did an excellent job of summarizing what I was told (and that I subsequently did a poor job of explaining to the group).

Here's the deal. We had a beautiful afternoon here today. After 8 hours straight on the phone, I got the G out to remove the jumper cable from the positive cable. I decided to check the voltage one more time...

This time it showed 15.2 volts at idle. Raising the RPM did not change the voltage measured at the battery. 

So, based upon Warren's response, do I need to check each connection for connectivity/problems? I can't emphasize how bad I struggle with electrical issues. If it involves a hammer or big wrench, then there are few better than myself. 

Any feedback is appreciated and welcomed given the other issues which seem to be dominating the communications capabilities of this list server this evening.

Electricity is NOT my friend,

Richard Osborne

--- In Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Warren Anderson" <wranderson@...> wrote:
>
> 
>   You were fortunate be working with a fellow that knows something about old Chrysler charging systems as you could have done some sigificant damage if he had left the thing charging at the level you posted.
> 
>   What your car probably has is excessive voltage drop in the ignition circuit or in the main power feed wiring. This is fully covered in a Chrysler factory shop manual. Testing is pretty simple and is accomplished with a good (suggest digital) volt-ohmmeter. Every element in the system is suspect until checked. Connections at the bulkhead connector, ignition switch, dash ammeter and at the slternator are always suspect. 
> 
>   With a circuit working under load, voltage drop testing (ohmmeter testing is very inaccurate and misleading) will help locate where voltage is being lost. The procedure is spelled out in a Chrysler manual of the era and pretty much keeps you from physically having to deal with places that are hard to access. 
> 
>   One quick test would be to look at battery voltage, voltage at the alternator output stud and at the ignition sense wire at the alternator regulator; system hooked up normally, battery at full charge and engine at constant 1500 RPM or so and lights and heater blower on high.  
> 
>   Voltage at the alternator will be the highest. Measured battery voltage should be in the close neighborhood of 14.3 volts. If it is higher, voltage at the regulator will be low and alternator voltage high (trying to bring it up).  Without normal circuit resistance and resultant circuit voltage drop due to current flow, all three voltages should be equal but they will not be. Best way to find a bad circuit part is to follow the manual. 
> 
>   And, everthing working, the voltage at the sense wire at the regulator is the voltage the regulator is maintaining. And, there should be zero volts (note it won't be but better be darned close), regulator case ground to battery negative. Positive and negative sides both can have damaging voltage drops. 
> 
>   Warren Anderson
>   Sedona,AZ
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>




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