Re: [Chrysler300] Sheet metal fabrication question - H trunk floor

["Jean-Yves Chouinard" <jymopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi Carlton.
I use "HI-BUILT ZINC WELD-THRU" primer. Made in Canada by "The Dominion Sure Seal Group". Comes in a spray  can. Hope you have it in the States or maybe there is a similar product available. I spay on bare metal before welding the pieces together, it doesn't seem to "burn off" when welding like regular primer/paint does...Protects overlaping surfaces like the floor to brace edge you are going to spot weld. Shooting paint inside after welding has cooled off also helps. If your not going to ride in salt with the H, you should be o.k. for a long time...
Hope this helps...
Jean-Yves.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Carlton Schroeder 
  To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2009 12:03 PM
  Subject: [Chrysler300] Sheet metal fabrication question - H trunk floor





  Hello,

  This isn't a big problem but I'd appreciate some advice. I chose to fabricate my H trunk floor myself and so far it has come out OK. I did spend 4 - 6 hours hammering in the stiffening beads with a homemade tool and hardwood die. ( A 1/2" core router bit made a nice groove and two pairs of grooves reduces shifting the sheet metal.)

  Shortly I'll attach and reweld the two bottom stiffeners and this is where my question is; is that enclosed area painted / protected? At the factory would that inside area get coated when the body was dipped? I could paint / protect inside first and then grind / remove paint / weld or I guess I could weld first and later pour some thinned paint through the end openings and gas tank strap bolt holes.

  I have wondered how restorers deal with these sorts of enclosed areas. 

  Thanks for any advice.

  Carlton Schroeder
  Eagle River, WI

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


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