Re: [Chrysler300] Put on your paint and powder, you shout loud, I'll shout lo...

[mwl1967@xxxxxxx]

In a message dated 11/2/2009 7:58:53 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
jblken@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:

All -  My take on clear coat paint is it is still crap - 
    I guess anything you don't understand or are  incapable of using is 
crap in your eyes?

the old single stage enamels are the easiest to touch up  
or do spot repairs. 
    Well actually lacquer paints are the easiest to  touch up / do spot 
repairs because they can be melted into the old finish,  regardless of how old 
is it. It unfortunately also makes it the least durable  finish out there. 
These so called "spot repairs" on enamel finish (I'll assume  you're not 
talking about a brush or a roller here) don't melt in if you want to  do a panel 
blend. You've got a new finish overlapping an old finish and  eventually 
the edge will break down and you'll see the halo of the blend

Clear  coat may be easy for a pro paint shop to 
repair (usually they have to do  the whole panel/side to repair a small 
spot) 
    Do an entire side for a small spot??  Usually  ?  They?  Would love to 
see your research data on that claim.   Sounds like the guy who comes into 
the shop wanting an $80 fender  (crunched from the bumper to over the 
wheelhouse) repaired (can't you just  bang that out?) because somehow he feels it's 
gonna save him money. Seriously  now.. this is just the rationale one would 
expect from someone touting claims  that "clear coat paint is crap"

but  they charge an arm and a leg. 
    Love this too...  um... based on what?   Based on the fact that when 
your "H" was new it cost perhaps $4500 and you could  get your fender painted 
for $45?  Well, a contemporary performance sedan  today runs about $45,000 
(yeah, I know, an arm and a leg) and well guess what?  Contemporary body and 
paint labor and materials are probably proportionately  higher as well.

I, a  do-it -myself restorer, 
have had terrible results with touch repair on my  late model-every day 
car drivers. 
    I think we're all do-it-your-selfers at heart but  certain things don't 
mix. Like "old enamel paint" and your late model everyday  car. Provided 
your "late model" car is newer than maybe 1988 or 1989.  Yes,  that's when the 
OE's began to use clearcoat. Why? Because it cost less? No, it's  because 
your "old enamel paint" wasn't up to the task of fighting off everyday  
elements, acid rain, rail dust and on and on and on.
 
    Please do-it-your-selfers, don't feel bad ... I  know how you feel. I 
myself have had "terrible results" trying to just tune my  late model-every 
day car. I just can't seem to find the ignition points or  carburetors on the 
5.7 Hemi in my 300C

I have  yet had any newer, clear coat cars, last more 
then 5-7 years before the  clear coat goes to hell -doesn't happen to 
cars, I have had, with 50 year  old paint.
    So, when was the last time your 50 year old car was  subjected to the 
elements on a daily basis? If it actually sees  a show  every weekend for six 
months out of the year that means it's 1/12th of  the exposure your "every 
day" car sees. Leave your everyday car in the  garage 11 months a year and 
see if the paint doesn't look great in 50 years.  

While we're on the subject I've just gotta say that  radial tires are just 
crap! You know I leave 'em out in the yard maybe 7-8 years  and they just 
lose air and disintegrate in the desert sun. Don't seem to have  any luck with 
those things and ya know the last set I bought was almost $900 .  . a 
veritable arm and a leg! 
 
    Anyway folks,  paint your car with  Dutch Boy or Glidden for all I care 
but at least have fun while you're doing it.  Drive 'em and show them off 
while you still can... chances are the putz next to  you in the new minivan 
would most likely kick your ass in the quarter  mile (and numerous other 
performance categories) and he doesn't care if your  paint is clearcoated or 
not. He just sees a nice old car. 
 
Mike Laiserin


Ken Wilson
62 H



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