Doug, Here is my opinion, others will have their own. I have done the conversion on several cars, including my 300G, all successfully. Each car I did was in need of brake work anyway so I combined the jobs together. New or rebuilt master cylinder New or rebuilt wheel cylinders New flex lines Drain system, blow compressed air through hard lines, assemble components, fill with DOT 5, bleed at rear right wheel cylinder until fluid looks as clean as what is going into the master from the bottle. Continue to the other 3 wheels going in order LR, RF,LF. It is best (fastest) to have 3 people, one in the car pushing the brake pedal, one topping off the master, one opening and closing the bleed valve. Remember the bleed valve is only open on the down stroke. Do not shake the brake fluid, you will introduce air bubbles in it and they are hard to get rid of. Try not to run out of fluid in the master because you will have to start over. I really don't feel it is necessary or desirable to flush the lines with solvent, but if I did, it would be denatured alcohol. I can think of at least one car I converted to silicon fluid without changing any components, and that was a '74 Mercedes Benz 240D I owned. I drained it and bled it completely to the point that what was coming out looked just like what was going in. Drove that car for 4 years and over 100K miles without any problem, that car had disc brakes on all 4 wheels. My 300G has had DOT 5 for 32 years now, no corrosion, no paint loss. Bob J From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of 2HsandaHeritage@xxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Friday, February 04, 2011 8:51 AM To: Chrysler 300 Club International Subject: [Chrysler300] Dot 3 / Dot 5 Hi Group, The rear brake assemblies on my new 300 Sport are severely corroded due to leaking wheel cylinders and long storage. I have decided to switch from Dot 3 to Dot 5 brake fluid. My procedure will be to remove all wheel cylinders and hoses, remove , disassemble and clean the master cylinder, blow out the steel tubing with compressed air and flush the tubing with a solvent. I will then install new wheel cylinders and hoses, add Dot 5 and bleed the system. Any comments or suggestions on this procedure? What should I use to flush the steel tubing? Thank in advance, Doug Warrener Fair Oaks, CA 300H 300 Sport Conv. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join and select the "Leave Group" button For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylangYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/