RE: [Chrysler300] Amsoil synthetic gear lube study

["'John Grady' jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

What we have here is a failure to communicate--smile; the ones I had in my hand post 3000$ tow/shipping expense due to this were brass; someone on server pointed out that the problem with falling out , ---maybe that is only on sure grips..maybe sure grips have brass. Or someone made brass ones. Or parts from differing years? (this was 60) Mine had no split spring pins retaining it . Every one I took axle out of (was 2-3) had loose “button” , but aware of it then. Not even sure, now,  if all , by accident, were sure grip, or all brass; I was in there checking buttons with light due to brakes/wheel bearings/seals  ---not axle issues , sensitivity to button issue was huge due to 3000$ bad experience inflicted on me by someone else selling me a car put together wrong “ready to drive anywhere” . . . but readily acknowledge non sure grip may be something else, or perhaps steel was used , and apparently you describe retained by a roll pin? If the ones described not just by me but by the person with “mopar mechanic” describing the same problem of them falling out ,  by sticking to end of axle , they are obviously NOT retained by anything in that version..as that exact thing happened to me before I owned car . .And must have happened to Bob Merritt.  Car was towed from Chicago to Boston over this, the 3000$. ---Not like I imagined it. Whatever. ---If you think all steel , use GL5 .

 

If everyone in club knows about these buttons, huge amount of grief avoided. I did not know about them, nor did guy who sold me car. If shim pack does not work, this is why..

 

Maybe rephrase to whole fresh thing: What disaster happens if you use GL4 and be sure?  Name your poison. I did use GL-5 synthetic till I read this. They showed picture of totally wiped out syncro rings in manual trans. “caused by sulphur” in GL5. Info to know about, whether used or not. 

 

Best,

 

John

 

From: Don Verity [mailto:d.verity@xxxxxxx] 
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2014 8:22 PM
To: John Grady; BARJAM300@xxxxxxx; rixpac@xxxxxxx; jymopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Amsoil synthetic gear lube study

 

Sorry to rain on your parade, but the thrust buttons are not brass, they are steel. That’s how Bob Merritt was able to fish one out of the rear on one of his cars. I have had these apart myself too, and know from experience that they are steel, held together by a split pin. I don’t know about early sure grips, but the 60 and up is steel. 

Don

 

From: mailto:Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 

Sent: Monday, August 04, 2014 5:01 PM

To: BARJAM300@xxxxxxx ; rixpac@xxxxxxx ; jymopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 

Cc: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 

Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Amsoil synthetic gear lube study

 

  

Hi Rick..same way I felt--- but thrust pins in thrust block in 8 3/4 diff discussed in other email are in fact brass. Someone noted maybe only in sure grip..do not know, but do know in several I took apart they were there. And important functionally. = ? Matter of degree? GL-5 eats brass if you believe article. (due to sulphur lube in it)

That link is a great reference..main point is synthetic anything in oils is plain better than non synthetic, ---but have to watch additive packages. Same as motor oil, and flat cams. …..

SAE test/paper I saw / read about had older 350 camaro, I think it had 85k miles, running mobil 1, lab test every 1000 miles, oil still OK at 18000 but had lost additives unacceptably by then ; made me feel Ok about 10 k mile change with Mobil 1. Drove JEEP 4.0 330 k miles on this idea , engine still perfect . 4.0 a great engine anyway, but you get it. (99-01 not so good --head cracks,-- however) .Understand all those who are happy with old arrangement. Your call. New oil IS better.

Air cooled Onan generator I take care of, now equivalent of 1,000,000 miles at ~ 60 mph, (1800 RPM<) off grid island summer camp, circa 1950, (60 + years!) loves Mobil one and Harley synthetic/Mobil 1 ; much more tolerant of inherent air cooled high temps, better compression, lower running temp, more electricity, by about 10%, before slowing down. Stuff shines at high temps. And cold. Used to use 20-50 racing Valvoline in it, in fall , hard to crank/start, and it burned oil. No more.

I believe, but more than opinions, there are real reasons .

John

From: BARJAM300@xxxxxxx [mailto:BARJAM300@xxxxxxx] 
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2014 11:49 AM
To: rixpac@xxxxxxx; jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; jymopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Amsoil synthetic gear lube study

For anyone interested, Amsoil had a third party conduct an in-depth study on synthetic differential gear lubes. The study can be found at www.syntheticwarehouse.com/brochures/g2457_gearlube_study.pdf Please note that there is an _ (underscore) between "2457_gearlube_study" that does not show up 

in the webaddress.

Jim Bartuska

Club Stores

In a message dated 2014/08/01 05:33:37 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:

Do not worry about using GL-5 in our differentials. For decades there has been sulphur in gear lube being it is an anti scuff/anti-weld additive. GL-5 has almost 30% more anti scuff protection as compared to GL-4. Note; Our transmissions do not use gear oil as lube. I could understand why the oil would cause shifting problems, being it would not allow the syncro to clutch quickly and or correctly. 

Rick 

Post Script; I cannot think of any brass in our 8 3/4 rear axles. I have had many of these apart for rebuild or repair Re-clutch power lock sure grip and limited slip 1957 to 1973. 


_____ 

To: jymopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
CC: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2014 10:45:26 -0400
Subject: [Chrysler300] gear lube

Found out some interesting ,-- could be important ---stuff.

In Auto Restorer; GL-5 gear lube has sulphur and other additives that attack brass, so not for use on manual transmissions or rear axles with brass / bronze parts ; GL-4 OK ; I know 300F has brass thrust bearings in Axle center (Timken style rear wheel bearings) , many cars of our vintage had brass transmission syncros , brass bushings in diff, etc . I have been using synthetic 75W Mobil 1, not sure now if GL-5 or 4; GL-5 made for all 100% steel bearings, like ball bearings etc typical of new cars , EP additives help those, are in GL-5

Heads up!

John Grady, PE

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Posted by: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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