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>some of these drums are toast.
Their difficulty in removal meant that for years they were never serviced. Some
of these have shoes with no friction surface left at all and have ruined the
drums.
Danny - All true statements. But the point
that the guy was making was that you should do the conversion because of
difficulty of removal for general servicing. I had issues removing drums because
the shoes were stuck onto the drums after years of sitting outside. When finally
removed, the drums were a mess. So drums, shoes, frozen center supports
with rounded hex-head adjusters were all replaced with good used parts from dry
cars. All good now. And when I had to service a leaky rear wheel cylinder
on my 58 Plymouth, I was able to remove the rear drum with minimal effort, even
though the brakes hadn't been touched in about ten years.
Ron From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Dan Plotkin Sent: Monday, October 24, 2022 11:28 AM To: 'Ron Waters'; 'William Huff'; chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} Xout to slipover rear drums '57-'64. Ron- You are correct about one piece drum assemblies being
designed that way for a good reason. However their removal is not always as easy
as you say for everyone who tries. And you ignore the fact that some of these
drums are toast. Their difficulty in removal meant that for years they were
never serviced. Some of these have shoes with no friction surface left at all
and have ruined the drums. In a case like this a slip on drum and its associated
modification are not a bad idea. Twin wheel cylinders, booster cans mounted above master
cylinders, tapered rear axles were mostly good ideas at the time and at the time
were easy to deal with. Not so much today. Danny Plotkin From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
Ron Waters Sorry, but there is no need
to convert the existing 56 thru 64 (?) brakes to a jury-rigged setup. I've never
had trouble removing the drums from tapered axles, even on late 50s Mopars that
have sat outside for decades. It comes down to knowing how to correctly use the
tapered axle puller. Or use the Les Fairbanks tool. He
states that the main reason for doing the conversion is that it's 'a pain' to do
a brake job otherwise. So the question is, once he services the rear brakes, how
often does he expect to have to remove the rear drums, especially on our
cars which may get driven a few thousand miles a year ? I would guess once
a decade, if that. Also, Chrysler engineers created a one piece drum
and hub assembly for a reason: So that the drums stay centered with respect to
the hub and the shoes. When you defeat that purpose, you will experience uneven
braking and vibration. Just because it's on some
website doesn't mean it's gospel truth. Ron
From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
On Behalf Of William Huff That is very interesting, and answers some questions I have had for years, so
the axle doesn't have to change, good.. Now I wonder if I can just
substitute a later backing plate with the later brakes for the dual brake
cylinder set up on my 58 300. There may be some spacing issues between the
later drums and the older tapered axle drums. Bill Huff On 10/23/2022 9:25 PM, Rich Barber
wrote:
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