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I second that. I just had a friend that went through this with his 1958 Eldo convert. Some shop got new drums and pressed off the without cutting and made a mess. His brakes pulsed
like hell. Even if you cut studs off with the tool, the question is how do your swedge them back on? Also, where do you get the studs? I hunted for months to see if I could fine the swedging tool without luck. I also could not find the special studs that were used. A couple of shops say they swedge them with new
studs, but if you contact the manufacturer of the studs, they tell you so not do it as it will induce micro fractures. The old studs were made metallurgical to have the raised part that got swedged into place malleable. The new studs are not. The only two ways to place new drums onto an old hub to my knowledge are:
I have done a variant of #2 on my 1940’s Desoto using the rivet holes threaded to do the same. Lucky for those with riveted drums you do not have to deal with the stud issue. The only other thing is to send out a drum for relining. Expensive but works. James From: 'Donald
Verity' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
The lug studs are swaged over after the drum is installed. Pressing out the studs without cutting the swaged part out can warp the drum.
There is a special cutter for this if a lug stud has to be changed. If it works for him, fine. I would personally never do it. And as he said, if you have to do bearing work, the hub still has to come off. Don I’m not looking for an argument but it would be nice if you gave an
engineering reason for your views. In the video it looked like the drum was still centred on the middle hole. I was under the impression that these drums had clearance there and this would cause a problem – but it doesn’t seem to have any clearance,
just like a later Chrysler set up or other later drum. Just listen to the familiar “ring” when he puts the drum back on. I could agree that it would be best to first mark the drum and a stud to ensure it always went back on in the same relative position
as to how it may have been machined but that’s about it. Any other genuine reasons would be appreciated. Note that I DO NOT intend to do this to my car. This guy isn’t a hack. The woman I mentioned took her car interstate to get her
car done by him because he is a Valiant expert. But “maybe” he got this one wrong. That’s why I wanted to know any reasons why it shouldn’t be done from others that may have done it before. Henry From:
'Ron Waters' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
DO NOT DO THIS ! Just because some clown posts a YouTube video doesn’t mean that it’s good advice. The hub/drum assembly
is designed as a one-piece unit. Defeating that will lead to endless grief, including chattering and poor braking. Dangerous. Ron From:
chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx On Behalf Of
henry.schleimer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx By coincidence (or conspiracy), a new video popped up in my YouTube showing an
Australian Mopar mechanic modifying a 58 New Yorker’s rear drums so he won’t have to remove the taper to get the drum off. See
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_bsYO8jXdo I thought there was a problem in centring the drum if they didn’t press on the
studs but this doesn’t seem to be an issue in the video. Comments are welcome but I have no stake in this. I have the plate remover designed by a Club member and have found it to be easy enough to use. I also give the taper a light wipe of Moly grease to
stop corrosion. Note that not long ago I had a chat with a woman with a beautiful Australian Charger
that was restored by the guy in this video so he isn’t a backyard hack. Cheers Henry From:
chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
On Behalf Of dplotkin Call Murray Park Danny Plotkin Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: Rick Gould <rdg123@xxxxxxxxx>
Date: 1/3/25 5:53 PM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: {Chrysler 300} drum removal
Hi all, Rear drums are off. All went reasonably well, everything considered. The previous
owner had applied neverseize which probably helped. Thanks to everyone who responded. I had watched Bob's video and looked over John's tech article. Is it possible to source a replacement support plate with operating cams? For some reason that I don't understand, my computer won't let me respond to the
original thread? Rick --
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