RE: trans brake and high stall converters

[Earl Helm <earlh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

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I personally don't think there is a better converter on the market
than Frank Lupa's Dynamic converters. PERIOD>>>They are
spendy, but worth it. 

Earl


Second part ouf your question was related to high stall converters.
These 
are another device to help launch a performance car.  You can tell what
the 
stall speed of a converter is pretty easily if you have a tach.  Put it
in 
low and hold the brake and give it throttle until rpm stops rising on
the 
tach.  Don't do this for long because it is hard on them.  The standard 
passenger car converter is all about the best combination of performance
and 
fuel economy.  A lot of them actually mechanically lock up in high gear
to 
prevent any loss of efficiency due to slippage.  In theory the ideal
torque 
converter for a drag car has a stall speed about 500rpm below the rpm at

which the engine porduces maximum torque.   This allows the driver to
hold 
the brake pedal and rev the engine to almost maximum engine torque.
When 
you release the brake and stand on the throttle from that point you get 
almost instantaneous application of maximum torque.  If the tires and 
suspension are up to it  you will launch really hard.  If they are not
up to 
it you will probably light the tires instantly.   I think Don Dulmage
runs a 
3800 stall Dynamic in his 63 and he recently told me on a good day with
his 
265/15 tires he can pull the fronts off the ground.  My 63 330 Max Wedge
car 
has a 4800 stall Dynamic in it with 3.91 Suregrip and 225/15 tires on
the 
back.  This engine is at max torque right around that rpm.  If I stand
on it 
from an idle it lights-em and you better watch the tach or there will be
an 
expensive bang shortly because it leaps to 6000+ rpm.  If I run it up to

4,000 (which I can do easily cause the converter continues to slip til
4800) 
and take my foot off the brake and just squeeze the pedal to the floor
just 
short of lighting the tires the launch is, well, it'll change your whole
day 
if you're not used to it.    That's all the racy fun stuff but there are

some practical considerations too.  I can't drive my car at 4800 rpm
down 
the freeway or there's gonna be trouble under the hood.  While I'm
schleppin 
along at 2800 rpm that converter is slipping.  It would slip more with a

lower numerical axle ratio like a 3.23.  While it's slippin it's making 
lotsa heat and putting it into the trans fluid.  I'm working on another
car 
that will get more cruise duty than the max wedge car does and it will
have 
a 2400 stall converter in it which is about 25% higher than the stock 
converter and will help it launch harder if I wanna play but will be
above 
stall speed at 2800 rpm or about 60mph in this case.   There is also a 
difference in the amount of slippage and efficiency you will get from
one 
converter brand to another.  The Dynamics are pretty good ones but
they're 
not $110 at Auto Zone either.  You get what you pay for and if I'm gonna

haul a greasy old trans out to put a converter in it I want to get a
good 
one in there the first time.


>From: Robert neal zimmerman <northwestweirdo@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
>To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: trans brake and high stall converters
>Date: Thu, 27 May 2004 07:17:24 -0700
>
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>    Would anybody care to briefly explain to me what a trans brake is
and
>    does?
>       Also i know little about high stall converters, what do they do
and
>       how do they work?
>    Just curious.
>     Neal ZImmerman Eugene Oregon
>
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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 

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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 



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