RE: paint prep
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RE: paint prep



 People have been media blasting for years with no
adverse effects on the final finish.Of coarse anyone
that's in the industry know, the bare surface needs to
be a braided(sanded) for proper adhesion.
 Secondly todays paint products are far and away much
better then what the factory was using back when our
cars where first built.
--- "Earl H. " <earlh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> 
> My recommendation is not to blast period. What
> happens is, no 
> matter what media you use, some of it will remain in
> the microscopic 
> pits of the metal. This will cause issues later
> after painting.
> If you want a paint job to last as long as the
> original, don't blast.
> 
> If the original paint is good, and you do not
> discover any unexpected 
> past repairs while prepping for the new paint, just
> sand the original paint 
> and paint over it. You can do a test on the existing
> paint to make sure 
> the new paint, primer, and cutting agent is not
> going to react with 
> the original paint. If it does not, then leaving the
> original paint on is 
> the way to go. I am assuming it has not been
> repainted. If this is 
> the second paint job on the car, I would recommend a
> chemical strip. 
> This is not that hard to do, but yields far better
> results. This can be 
> done by hand. I would recommend removing all the
> glass when doing 
> the new paint job.
> 
> Earl
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Fortson [mailto:bobt1885@xxxxxxxxx] 
> Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 10:49 AM
> To: 1962to1965mopars@
> Subject: Re: paint prep
> 
> 
> Don't sand blast! Stretches the metal they say. I
> don't know about the
> prices, but ...................
> 
> Bob Fortson
> 
> --- bigroberta@xxxxxxx wrote:
> 
> > 
> > 
> > Hi all,
> >  
> > I am  getting ready to strip and repaint my car. 
> > Any thoughts on sandblasting, media blasting
> >  
> > or soda blasting. I just came back from a shop
> that does soda blasting 
> > and this seems like the way to
> >  
> > go.  My car doest have any heavy rust.  The guy
> wants $ 1400 to do 
> > everything here in MD.
> >  
> >  
> >  I plan on taking everything off except what is
> needed to roll the car. 
> > He says " the soda will not
> >  
> > hurt anything." 
> >  
> > Robert
> > 63 spt fury conv.
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  
> > ROBERT GILLIS...
> >
>
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> >
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> >
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> 
>  
>
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> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to
> only one person --
> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car
> transactions and negotiations
> as well as other personal messages only to the
> intended recipient, not to
> the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
> protect your privacy,
> reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> content signal to Mopar
> topic.  Thanks!
> 
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 
> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to
> only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e.,
> send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well
> as other personal messages only to the intended
> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This
> practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total
> volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to
> Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 
>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 


Dean Miller



 
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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 

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