Re: Torqueflite adjustments
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Re: Torqueflite adjustments
My kick down linkage is cable from LoKar. 1972 ..440/727. Not sure it will work on a 64. Not stock but looks great. 
Ollie
----- Original Message ----- From: "Steven Charette" <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 1:05 PM
Subject: RE: Torqueflite adjustments



Butch,
Call Rick Allison at A&A Transmission - they make linkage setups and
he should be able to tell you what will fit on your car.  Bouchillon makes a
kickdown cable kit that utilizes Dodge Ram pieces.

SC

-----Original Message-----
From: Butch Edison [mailto:waedison@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 1:59 PM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: Torqueflite adjustments


I took a good look at my kickdown assembly. As I move it to the rear, it
hits the firewall. Can anyone recommend an aftermarket assembly that will
fit my 64 with a 383 and one 4-barrel? Thanks/Butch/Ferndale, WA


W.A. Edison wrote:


Herb, it will be weeks before I work on the transmission, but would
like to query you on another quirky thing about this torqueflite. It's
a floor shift. When I push the shift lever from 1st to 2nd, it does
not shift until I push the shift lever about 1/8" more. Same from 2nd
to drive and drive to neutral. Is this something I adjust outside the
transmission? Thanks/Butch/Ferndale, WA

-----Original Message-----
From: Herb [mailto:zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 10:46 AM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: B body disc brake



As far as shifting have someone hold the accelerator to the floor and
adjust the kickdown rod so it is all the way back with no slack.  It
should shift at 25 & 35 under normal acceleration.  Even though it's
been welded on if it shifts at about the right speed you should be OK.
When you get the time or energy to re-pull the tranny pan do your
adjustments then and drain the converter.  If you pull the dust cover
from the front of the tranny and turn the engine over by hand or
tapping the starter you will see a drain plug on the converter through
a hole in the flywheel.  Pull that plug and you will get up to about
ten quarts of fluid out of it depending on it's size and of course
what you get out of the pan.  When you get around to doing it we can
cover it more in depth and a quick way to adjust the bands.  (-;



         

 Herb



1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361

1959 Coronet 326 Poly

1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1

1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361

1970 Challenger RT 440 - 4 Sale

1999 Durango SLT 5.9

2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1

St. Louis, MO.



http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html









-------Original Message-------



From: Butch Edison

Date: 1/16/2010 11:11:14 AM

To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx

Subject: RE: B body disc brake



Thanks Herb. I used rubber bushings on this car. I have a set of polys
that I'm going to use on my other one, just to see if I notice a
difference.
This
car has the original ball & trunnion U-joint setup, so will hazard a
guess that this was the original (or at least correct) transmission
for the car.



The magnet was a dollar sized washer, which sounds right per your note.
No,
I didn't adjust the bands (arghh) because when I saw the metal burrs
(all very small strands), I figured "just stop the leaks and have it
rebuilt".
The linkage has been welded on at least once, so that looks like a
good opportunity to make the thing shift correctly. I'll post a
different note on that, so I don't screw up this thread. Appreciate
the follow-on remarks about the pads. Can't wait for the rain to stop
so I can get it out on the road for a few hundred miles!



/Butch/Ferndale, WA



-----Original Message-----

From: Herb [mailto:zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx]

Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 2:45 AM

To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx

Subject: RE: B body disc brakes







Congrats!  Had the same experience with my 63 Sport Fury restoring the
front

& rear suspension!  Did you use rubber or poligraphite bushings?







727s came with a magnet about the size of a thick silver dollar with a
hole

in it in the pan and don't be too worried about the chia look!!  That is

just normal wear & tear.  Tranny shops have been scarring people for
years,

just like you did yourself, by showing customers the metal flakes in the
pan

or on the magnet while shaking their heads and wondering how they made
it to

the shop!!  Now, if you have big chunks that's a different story.  The

shifting correctly problem is more than likely your kickdown linkage.
If

adjusted correctly, under normal acceleration, it should shift at 25 &
35

MPH.  Did you adjust your bands when you had the pan off?  Now's a great

time to ask he says to him self... (-;  Before I speculate any more what
is

the shift problem?







You probably wont feel the front or rear applying unless your way off.
Do a

couple of panic stops and make sure the rear is not locking up before
the

front.  Also expect to go through two or three sets of front pads to a
set

of rear shoes over time.  If not too much rear braking.  Front should do

about 80% of the braking.







What say you?







         



  Herb







1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361



1959 Coronet 326 Poly



1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1



1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361



1970 Challenger RT 440 - 4 Sale



1999 Durango SLT 5.9



2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1



St. Louis, MO.







http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html



















-------Original Message-------







From: Butch Edison



Date: 1/16/2010 12:04:06 AM



To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx



Subject: RE: B body disc brakes







Well, this part of the car's restoration is done. All new suspension in
the

rear, restored steering coupler and power steering, restored front end

linkage A-to-Z, disc brake conversion complete. It may quit along the

highway somewhere, but it's safe to drive now and very pleasurable to
drive

as well. The front end tech said it dialed in like a dream and it rides
like

one too. No more leaks from the engine or tranny oil pan. Now.... on to
the

A727. It doesn't shift correctly and when I had the pan off, found that
the

previous owner had put a magnet in the pan and it looked like a chia
brillo

pad with all the steel particles on it.







If there is anything odd, it is that the proportioning valve is wide
open,

yet the car stops like I'd expect it to. I thought I'd have too much
back

braking with the valve open all the way. I'll drive it some, then start

cutting fluid to the back brakes to see what happens. I have not done
any

hard stops yet. Should I actually feel the fronts apply first?







Thanks,







/Butch/Ferndale, WA

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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----

Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not
to
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to
Mopar
topic.  Thanks!



1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:

http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www
1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and 
negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.






1964 Plymouth Sport Fury (red), 440, A727
1964 Plymouth Sport Fury (white) 383, A727
1937 Plymouth coupe, 340, A727


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. 


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. 
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