----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2005 6:53
PM
Subject: Re: IML: 413 block leak
Your block is leaking for one of two reasons- the metal has failed
metallurgially or a seal that keeps the water in has failed.
If the block is cracked, you're most likely looking at pulling and
replaceing it UNLESS you're willing to do a little shade-tree monkey business
and gamble a little bit.
If so, you need to find out where the leak is. It's probably a
crack caused by overheating (??why did it crack?). There is a putty that
comes in two parts called JB weld. If you clean the area around the
crack extensively and degrease it, you may be able to repair it by slapping
that stuff on there. It comes in two seperate tubes and is available
over the counter at most reputable car parts places.
Wanna bet that it's somewhere that you can see but can't reach without
pulling the engine? You never know - you might get lucky. Most
mechanics won't touch this sort of thing with a 10-foot pole. Cant make
any promises and don't want to be held liable...
Second scenario: Seal is bad. The water pump, heads/head
gaskets, and freeze plugs all hold the water in. If one of them is
compromised, your engine leaks. Water pump and heads are usually easy to
diagnose and repair. You explicitly stated that the block is
leaking. Is it leaking from a crack (see above) or is it coming from one
of those small circles that are pressed in? The circles are metal caps
that go into holes cast into the block. Water freezing expands and can
crack the block, so these are a failsafe device and under extreme cold
conditions will allow the expanding freezing water to force them out, yeilding
a repair bill but not a replacement bill.
These can be slapped back in after removeal and re-sealed.
Generally you have to take the engine out, but sometimes you get lucky and can
do it with the engine
in.
First challenge for you is to decipher where the water loss is coming
from (have you seen the crack?) and then to address it.
I see an engine removal in your future. Hopefully you won't get to
build up a new one.
The 440 is normally an almost direct replacement. It is almost the
same thign and most holes are the same. Since I have not done a swap
myself, I can't say if all of the accessories will fit the same or
need adaptation. A 440 is not, however, the 413. Should you
swap? Nobody will know but you and people that know how (and care to) count
the number of bolts on your valve covers. I personally like the feel of
a 413, but that's splitting hairs - they are both effective engines, and
dropping in a workable 440 might be an efficient path out of your
plight.
Kenyon Wills
Scott Scheuermann
<s.l.scheuermann@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
A newby here, to the list and classic cars. I
have a problem that I have never heard of before and I'm looking for some
input. The car is a 65 Crown 4 door with a 413. It leaks coolant from the
block. Coolant and oil are not mixing. One mechanic looked at it
briefly and said that the block was cracked. Another took a lot more time
and said that it is actually seeping through the block. He tried a couple of
different sealants that were "guaranteed" to work...and of course did not!
He believes that the engine was previously rebuilt and it runs great. So
where to go from here without breaking the bank? 413's are not to be found
locally. I understand that a 440 may be a suitable engine, but not original.
I hate to start changing things on a car that appears to be original with
the sole exception of the paint. It is tempting to do nothing, but my hope
for the car is to tow my '60 Airstream travel trailer (#5000) and I don't
want the engine blowing on me! I am not going for a show quality car
here...a "20 footer" would be good enough for me as long as the mechanicals
can handle the extra rigors of
towing.
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