Re: IML: 82 Imperial Resurrection

["A. Foster" <monkeypuzzle1@xxxxxxx>]

Ken;
  I would change the cap, rotor, leads, and plugs, if they are still
original. On my 75' Newport I had starting problems, many suggested the
ignition coil or ballast resistor, but it turned out to be the E.I control
module. Ignition coils, as with ballast resistors, generally go open if they
quit working much like a light bulb. Occasionally the coil will go open
intermittently when it gets hot and work again when it cools down but they
don't seem to slowly fail like a T.V set or computer. If you are worried
about that happening it's your call but I don't think that the car will run
any better for it.
 I would change the cheap stuff first that probably needs changing anyhow,
23 year old spark plug leads, distributor cap, and a rotor are not to be
trusted and are likely responseble for the bad performance. As for the cap
and rotor I would recommend the ones with brass contacts over the aluminum
ones as brass takes longer to burn and corrode. As for plugs I would use
either Autolites or NGKs of an O.E.M equivailent. I think that any decent
quality set of O.E.M equivailent leads should be fine as it isn't a race
motor.
Best Regards
Arran Foster
1954 Imperial Newport
Needing A Left Side Tailight bezel and other trim parts
1975 Chrysler Newport
E.I Control module was same age as the car when it blew.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ken W Stephenson" <kss37215@xxxxxxxx>
To: <dickb@xxxxxxxxx>; <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2005 6:56 PM
Subject: IML: 82 Imperial Resurrection


Latest on the Nozzle and Control Pump autopsy.  Both were immaculate
internally.  Absolutely no crud, looked brand new.  Tested motor on
bench, ran at all speeds, up to 23 volts per spec.  Anyone attempting
this "cleanup" should make sure they have a 5/16" Allen wrench handy for
the bypass regulator cap.  I'm convinced that nothing can get past those
dual fuel filters.
This was very educational, but we are back to square one.  I shall now do
what Dick recommended and replace the ignition wires, cap, rotor, and
coil, as they are all original.  I have a 93 Grand Cherokee, a 93
Imperial, and a 91 TC, all have over 150,000 miles and 12 to 14 years of
snow belt winters, and all I have ever changed on them were spark plugs.
This 82 Imperial spent it's life in sunny southern California, but maybe
the dry climate got to those high voltage parts.  I've seen that happen
to high voltage power supplies at military installations out there.  Any
suggestions on replacement components, or just stay with OEM equivalents?
 I'm going to take a rest and regrow my epidermis after contact with all
that carb cleaner.
Ken   k9kws


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