I recently started "The 1960 LeBaron Dream" project.
1. The car has a body with almost zero rot and is thus the
chosen car of my 2 for the final chassis. It does suffer
from some intense surface rust on all 4 doors and roof -
horizontal surfaces basically. The car reportedly came
from 16 years outside in Marin and the rust looks to be the
work of morning water condensation and sitting in the shade
where the water did not evaporate quickly each day, maybe
even sat in a foggy/wet area. The Rust is very even and
not deep at all, unlike the pits and sores normally found
around the bottom edges of hte car where it came through
from the other side of the metal from poor drainage or
whatever.
I took a grinder with a wire wheel on it to the car last
night, and it appears that I will be able to remove the
surface rust pretty easily. Most areas went down to shiny
bare metal or rust stained-shiny-smooth metal with a little
effort.
The top surfaces of the doors, however have steel that is
very dark and pitted in places after wire wheeling it for
awhile. I doubt that I can change this, but will use an
orbital sander just to make certain that I am at the bottom
of the rust layer and am really on steel and not
rust-scale.
The local pro auto paint place has a water-thin liquid rust
neutralizer that is applied with a cloth to the bare metal,
that turns the rust-infected areas black and supposedly
kills the remaining rust that is "in" the metal that can't
be sanded out. I plan to use this first, followed by
corroless and then by a very thin sheet of body filler for
any pits that the corroless does not fill(they make a
lighter version of body filler for this type of thing).
Corroless to be followed by sandable primer and lots of
elbow grease in the normal paint prep procedure, to include
Ting on each coat that I touch and before final spray of
colored paint.
Am I missing any rust elimination steps?
=====
Kenyon Wills
6o LeBaron - America's Most Carefully Built Car
73 LeBaron - Long Low & Luxurious
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