Yesterday was a rather productive day on the New Yorker. Even though I had
recently removed the front passenger door window motor and cleaned,
lubricated and reinstalled it, the window still would barely move. It
turned out that the material that is on the front edge of the window was
binding in the track. I had to remove the window anyway to replace the
right remote mirror so I thought I would try to solve both issues at once.
I took the window and tracks out including the vent window assembly. This
isn't very difficult but getting some of the tracks out or the door cavity
is a challenge, particularly the bracket at the bottom of the vent window
assembly. Getting it all out without destroying the plastic material on the
front of the window is also tricky. I got it all out and that cleared the
way to replace the right remote mirror. I had the unit from my 76 T&C parts
car and it worked very nicely. I took the old mirror off and got the cables
all pulled back through the door etc. Replacing the cables was a different
matter. I had to push two big rubber gromets through the hole in the top of
the door and one of them through the hole in the front of the door, near the
hinge. Then I had to get the one grommet secured in the body of the car
while the other one secured in the door side. The cable routes through the
car body and then up toward the front of the dash where it goes across
toward the centre of the dash and mounts in the bracket where you can see it
from inside the car. This is not all that hard, it's just alot of fiddling
to get everything threaded in there the correct way. Having the dash pad
off already made the job much easier. Taking that dash pad off really opens
up much of the workings of the dash so I highly recommend taking it off if
you are working under there much at all. It's pretty easy to remove.
After getting the mirror all installed (it works great by-the-way) I had to
reassemble the window tracking and windows in the door. This also isn't
really hard to do but you have to remember how all the brackets go. I
didn't quite remember but since I had the driver's door opened up anyway, I
could use it as a reference as to the correct placement of the bracets. I
got all that installed and now the window goes up and down the way it
should.
I was thinking last night how much I've spent so far on the car, other than
the initial purchase and getting it home, and since my parts cars have paid
for themselves already...
Replaced one window motor $0 (parts car)
Freed up rear left door latch mechanism $0
Fixed driver's door switch pack assembly $0.50 electrical connector
Replaced two window motor clutches $0 (parts car)
Replaced right remote outside mirror $0 (parts car)
Replaced engine breather assembly (on right valve cover) $0 (parts car)
Replace power seat mechanisms on both front seats $0 (parts car)
Something tells me my luck in this area may be running out. I might start
troubleshooting the electrical system in the dash today. I've been sort of
avoiding that but it's got to be done.
Brad Hogg
Winnipeg, Manitoba
http://www.nybclub.org/bradhogg/index.htm
1990 Chrysler Imperial 4-door Sedan (the KImperial)
1978 Chrysler Newport 4-door Hard Top (the Newporker)
1976 Chrysler New Yorker Brougham 4-door Hard Top (the Black Beast)
1968 Chrysler Newport Custom 4-door Sedan (Grand-Dad's car)
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