This distance sounds a bit too low, but I may be wrong. I think you may be able
to wind up the T-bars a bit more by removing the rear cross member anchor
point. Then, by moving the suspension by hand, try to re-anchor the hex at the
next flat. I will try to look at my FSM and see if its possible to remove the
rear cross member without removing the T-bar from the front anchor point...
D^2
Quoting BOBSMOPAR <bobsmopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>:
> Hi All.
> Thanks to all who have replied to my question.
> Yes it is up on jack stands right now.
> The pads that I call them is the part that the adjusting bolt hits to raze
> the car and wind the t-bars.
> I have not removed the bars yet I have only moved the adjusting bolts so
> they are at the base of the threaded adjusters.
> The 1/2 and 3/4 inches that I was talking about is the space between the
> bolt adjuster and the pad that it goes up against to adjust the bars.
> I did look in my book but it did not give a name for the pads it just shows
> were they go when you put new bushings on .
> I hope this makes my question a little easer to answer I am not to good with
> giving a description on these computers I can do better when talking on the
> phone or in person.
> Thanks again for your help.
> I only have until May19th to get the car road ready for the trip to O.C MD.
> for a big car show.
> Bob
> 68 Imperial
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dardal@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 9:55 AM
> Subject: Re: IML: 68 t-bars
>
>
> > Bob, I am not fully follow you. Did you remove the bolts completely from
> the
> > lower control arms? If yes, are you supporting the car with lack stands?
> Or
> > does the half and 3/4 of an inch refers to how much the bolt head sticks
> out
> > from the control arm at the current adjustment?
> >
> > > I was wondering if I need to remove the bars and move the pads to the
> bolt
> > > adjusters.
> >
> > I cannot follow this. What do you mean pads? What you may have to do is
> remove
> > the T-bars from the anchor points at the rear cross member, and move them
> one
> > full flat to wind them more if the car rides too low. I do not remember
> the
> > procedure to do this and what needs to come off, but it will be well laid
> out
> > in the FSM. I can look it up for you if you want later in the week, or if
> > another member has a book handy, they can scan you the relevant pages...
> >
> > D^2
> >
> > Quoting BOBSMOPAR <bobsmopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>:
> >
> > > Hi all 67&68 owners and list.
> > > I went over to garage today and removed the adjusting bolts on the
> t-bars.
> > > On the left side I have an half inch between the adjusting bolt and the
> pad
> > > that it rest on to raze the car.
> > > On the right side I have about three quarter of an inch.
> > > Could this be my problem with bottoming out.
> > > I was wondering if I need to remove the bars and move the pads to the
> bolt
> > > adjusters.
> > > Thank you.
> > > Bob
> > > 68 Imperial
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >