The way I used to change the #7 plug on my 72 New Yorker was to use a 13/16 socket with a 7/8 HEX END that you could slip a box wrench over and "out comes the plug". Then of course you had to fanagle your fingers with the plug from underneath of the car to get it started, but you would tighten it up the same way. Craftsman or S-K Tools should carry a spark plug socket of this type.
-- Mike Veronesi Member of the Northeast Imperial Owners Club (N.E.I.O.C.) imperialsrus@xxxxxxxxxxx
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> I, too, was present for the #7 plug change, done by the Lovely Leslie on her > Haze Green car. While everyone was gathered 'round for this surgical > operation, I could be heard muttering in the background, 'just lift the > motor'. Did anyone listen? Well, they were under that car for a while. > > I have an Imperial-like, optional 440 in my '72 Newport. In that the > dimensions for the two cars differ in exactly this location of the #7 spark > plug, with its 4'' ahead of firewall extension in the Imperials, I will > offer the caveat that your actual procedure may vary. With that said, the #7 > plug in my otherwise very Imperial-like Newport is impossible to change > either from on top or from under the car. My car has the Imperial-like, > optional, tilt-telescope steering column and the heat insulator they use
on > those blocks the #7 plug. On my 1st attempt at changing #7, I ended up > breaking the coupler by turning the steering wheel w/o the motor running and > the coupler only partially attached, this after removing the heat insulator. > > A FWD GM driving 'acquaintance' of mine looked at the situation and said, > 'just lift the motor'. Well, being a GM-head, maybe this is common practice > for them.... anyhow, one left motor mount bolt removed, a couple of heaves > on the hydraulic jack under the oil sump (w/block of wood, of course) and > presto, easy access to #7. > > When I do plugs now, I haul out the socket that fits the motor mount bolt > (this is the long, lower bolt that threads into the subframe) my jack and > block of wood, and my thin walled spark plug socket. Simple procedure. End > of story. > > Eric > Portland, OR > '63 Crown 4dr > '72 Imperial-like Newport Custom sedan > >
> From: "Rob McCall" > Subject: IML: Haze green plug change > Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 22:50:12 -0400 > Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > I'm in need of a little Imperial guidance here. I've been working on my = > '67 > Le Baron trying to get it back among the living after its 15 year coma. = > The > Holley that was on it was pouring gas better than a full service pump. = > I've > pulled the Holley and installed a spare Edelbrock I had here, but I need = > to > change the plugs. Is there a trick to removing the rearmost driver's = > side > plug? The steering column coupler is in the way. I also notice the = > front > passenger plug caused some clearance problems with my ratchet and the = > upper > control arm hardware. > > Any tips are greatly appreciated. > > As fodder for the Haze Green Era controversy, couldn't the '67-68's be > refere
nced as the first generation unibody Imperial? > > Rob McCall > > > > ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- > This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please > reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be > shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the > Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm >
