RE: Paint Job Question?

[Don Owen <d4owe9@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Tom: I'm re-doing every nut, bolt, screw, and washer on a 64 Belvedere.
It will take years, but this is a total project beyond your typical "one 
thing leads to another"
restoration. My process is:
1. soda blasting or sand blasting the really bad areas.
2.clean the soda off with a mild acid.
3.etch the bare metal with RM 801 Conditioner (More Acid).
4. Air Dry and prime with Epoxy Primer (RM 589), except really bad areas 
that need extensive work
5. Do all the body work, and spot prime
6. Rough sand with 220-400
6. Apply a Urethane Primer/Filler. No "Sealers", most contain solvents that 
can affect adhesion
7. Wet sand that with 500 or 600 with LOTS and LOTS of water
8.Apply Base Coat then Clear Coat religiously per Tech sheets and 
temp/humidity, All RM products
9. Wet sand with 1500, and buff (this step may not be necessary depending on 
dust, etc

I've been practicing this process on my brother's 66 Dodge (big brother pay 
backs are important)
and its working beautifully. The RM products are cheaper than Glasurit and 
Dupont and the results
are still over-restoration. The key is working in low humidity whenever 
possible and cleanliness.
You have to use your RM Pre-Kleano or similar silicone/oil removers,  and do 
use the tack cloth.

Of course the real issue is safety with these urethane products.
We use the throwaway respirators and cover the ears, eyes, skin, etc. These 
products are
EXTREMELY dangerous, the same isocyanates that killed all those poor folks 
in Bhophal, India a few years ago. You must have alot of fresh air and 
filter the exhaust or just forget the home workshop
altogether and pay the pros. Frankly, that's probably what we should do! But 
you know its
very expensive these days, and we're not very intelligent.

Also, you have to cut out ALL the rust. We're actually cheating on this in a 
couple of areas where I want to preserve the original metal, but that is 
foolish in the long run. We're cleaning it, grinding it,
covering it with bondo and epoxy, but it will ABSOLUTELY continue to rust 
and that's the bottom line. I don't care what POR 15 or anybody else says, 
Decomposition is a law of nature and there ain't a darn thing we can do 
about it!!!

Hope that helps. There are numerous other opinions and processes. Just go 
with your gut and pick what works for you (eg, some guys would NEVER harm 
the metal with soda or sand, or some guys have outstanding results with 
primer/sealer products) Our approach is your basic " Shade Tree Mechanic 
Armed Meets Air Compressor And HVLP Guns Approach"  Best of luck with your 
car. Hope we all get to see it in the near future.
Donny, 64 Belvedere.

> From: Tom Duross <tduross1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Reply-To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> To: 1962-1965 Mopar Mail List <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Paint Job Question?
> Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2007 07:38:33 -0400
>
>
> Are there any members who have recently done a repaint of their car?
> I'm hoping to have my 64 Belvedere 4 door done very soon.
> Much of the primer is showing, I have some metal to replace (got the
> panels).
> It's original paint, faded more in places than others, and the metal is 99%
> good.
>
> I don't know if a complete stripping of the car is in order, if so I'd like
> to do as much as I can myself.
> I plan to undress her completely, have the stainless, bumpers and pot metal
> done while it's being painted.
> I've put off painting for 2 years and I can't wait any longer.
> I'm changing the color from light blue to dark blue metallic, with a little
> flake (just a bit).
> I plan to have the door jambs, engine compartment and trunk done too.
> Complete paint job.
>
> This is the car that will get the stroker when done.
>
> Tell me what you did, system used and what sort of prep was involved.
> I'd like to spend as much time as I can on prep, I know how important it 
> is.
>
> Tom Duross
> Boston
> Go Red Sox
>
>
> ----
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>
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 

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