Hello again Tom,
Sorry to hear about your bad luck with the instrument cluster!
Paul is right here (isn't he always :), your voltage limiter (inside
the
Temp gauge) is defective.
This is a sort of breakerpoints construction, with a bi-metal that is
heated by the 12 Volts of your car battery. When the piece of metal has
heated up the breakerpoints are opened, the bi-metal cools down then
and the points are closed. The whole cycle starts again and again and
again....
Resulting in a sort of constant voltage for the gauge of appr. 6 Volts.
Glad to hear that you disconnected all the senders, so your gauges will
be save then. It is very easy to fry them. You have to pull out the
instrument cluster to gain access to the old limiter, you must
disconnect it permanently from the terminals of the Temp gauge.
In case you haven't pulled out the cluster before, it is very easy.
Remove the chrome ring (one small Philips screw), unscrew the securing
nut for the time-adjustment knob of your clock, remove the the 3 larger
Philips screws that are securing the cluster in the dash.
Now you can pull out the cluster a little (those wires are not so long
to get it all the way out) and remove all the wires that are connected
to the gauges. Make a note how everything was connected if you still
haven't found your FSM back.
If you have the instrument cluster on the workbench, you can remove
three other Philips screws that are holding the Temp gauge in place.
You
can take it out now.
Now comes the tricky bit, remove the dial from the gauge (two small
screws) but remove the small white wire that is running to a terminal
on
the dial first! You will see the inside of the Temp gauge now.
It will be easy then to remove the remainings of your old limiter so
that it is no longer connected to the terminals of the gauge.
You can go now for a NAPA replacement, but if you are handy with a
solder iron you can also go for a modern solid state voltage limiter.
That is why the old remainings of your defective limiter must be
removed, cause what we want to do is connected the the leads of the
solid state device to the terminals of temp gauge. I have made this
conversion a year ago and used the LT1083CP5 for it, it delivers a
rocksteady 5 Volts and you can draw as much as 8 Amp. from it!
It is a very small device and it can be easily mounted at the back of
your temp gauge. The metal housing will be the heatsink for the voltage
regulator/limiter then.
I have make this conversion for almost a year ago now, and all the
gauges are working trouble free since then.
I know, this whole conversion thing sound rather complicated but it
isn't!
I don't know how much you are in a hurry (problaby as much as I am to
get my car back on the road..) but please feel free to send the gauge
(or
complete cluster to me) and I will do the conversion for you.
It will take 5 days to send it to me, and 5 days to send it back so
within 2 weeks you should be able to fit the instrument cluster again.
Good luck,
Robert
Op Do, 10 mei, 2007 12:31 am, schreef Tom Scott:
I disconnected all the senders so I don't fry my gauges. Can the
voltage limiter be replaced without taking the gauges out? Is it a
simple remove and replace job or am I missing something? Tom -----
Original Message -----
From: <randalpark@xxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 6:22 PM
Subject: Re: IML: 60 fuel sender unit
That part doesn't effect the voltage limiter.
Paul W.
-----Original Message-----
From: rlkidd@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wed, 9 May 2007 12:28 PM
Subject: Re: IML: 60 fuel sender unit
Try unplugging the sender at the tank again. The
rheostat may be bad in the new part.
On Wed, 9 May 2007 12:10:52 -0700 (PDT)
tom higgins <thomash85715@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Why would this happen at the same time as the sender was
being changed out? Just a coincidence? Tom said the other gauges
read normal until the replacement device went in.
randalpark@xxxxxxx wrote: The internal voltage limiter has
failed. You will need to bypass it and
install an external one on the back of the cluster. By being
pegged the gauges are receiving too much voltage, so they will
burn out very soon if you don't disconnect them.
There is information about this at ther OIC web site.
Paul W.
-----Original Message-----
From: shelbyguy@xxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wed, 9 May 2007 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: IML: 60 fuel sender unit
Well, I got my rebuilt fuel sender for my 60 Crown back
last night and I just got finished installing it. Prior to the
rebuild, my fuel gauge remained on E at all times. The oil
pressure gauge worked as did the temperature and ammeter gauges.
Now, after installing
the rebuilt fuel sender, the fuel gauge registers FULL even though
I
know there is only 3 gallons in the tank, the temp gauge pegged at
H as
did the oil pressure gauge. Anybody have any ideas what happened?
Thanx
Tom
60 4dr Crown Southampton.
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